FoodTrek: Demystifying Dumplings With Andrea Nguyen

You just want to hug Andrea Nguyen. Personable, funny and boisterous, she’s like a favorite auntie who let you drive the car when no one was looking, baked cookies at midnight while you watched old movies together, and brought unforgettable enthusiasm into everything she did. In a word – you learned. Food writer and James Beard nominee Andrea Nguyen brought her energetic method of education to Bellevue’s Monsoon East, to share tips from her new cookbook, Asian Dumplings, over a delicious meal of Vietnamese-style dumplings, prepared with loving skill by Monsoon East’s kitchen.

Happy Lunar New Year! Eat up! - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Celebrating the cookbook and Lunar New Year, this luncheon presented several delicious dumplings, paired with exquisite teas, to showcase the versatility of carbohydrates and starches, combined to form a multitude of textures and sensations. Paging through her beautifully written and photographed book, Asian Dumplings, it can seem almost daunting to attempt the seemingly exotic recipes, but Nguyen emphasizes the fact that dumplings themselves are a global phenomena, whether it’s in the form of ravioli, pelmeni, or the basic comfort of a chicken n’ dumpling soup. The process of making the dough and filling it with a bit of meat or vegetables is a universal thing, born of necessity versus gourmet inclinations, and while cultures differ in their process and ingredients, its intent has always been to make it a simple, humble meal. Andrea Nguyen wants to lift the veil and demystify these dishes, that while it’s easy enough to go out and have expert hands create perfect little parcels of deliciousness, it’s just as conceivable to learn the basics behind these creations, and do what many beloved grandmothers and favorite aunties have done for generations.

When it comes to cooking Asian meals, Nguyen pointed out the fact that we are far more blessed now in our grocery stores than we were not long ago. Something as basic as fresh ginger root or multiple choices of soy sauce wasn’t always available in basic stores. My own parents can attest to this, as my father used to raid the scant supplies of soy milk at neighborhood Lucky's Market, because of my lactose intolerance as a baby (cursed genetics!). Now, it’s more like, which soy milk flavor does one choose from the two rows of options? Andrea Nguyen carefully chose her ingredient list for her book based on what most grocery stores have, plus she includes shortcuts and “Lazy Day Tips” to further emphasize her goal to make these dishes accessible to every kitchen. Her personable writing voice also makes everything seem possible -- in one side note of her book, when she makes the suggestion to plan your own dumpling party, she advises for the party host to not make all the dumplings fresh on the day of the event, as “…this will only make you grumpy.” Wiser words have never spoken.

Rice batter, wrapped around pork and mushrooms - my favorite for the day. Photo by Wasabi Prime

Since this was a festive event, Monsoon East spared no flourish to truly give each dumpling something special, with the loving blessing of a taste of home. Guests were treated to sticky rice with mung bean paste and pork, wrapped in several banana leaves and boiled overnight, creating a large log-shaped dumpling, served in slices, and sprinkled with fine cubes of a mortadella-like Vietnamese pork sausage, taking on the fragrance of the banana leaf and the delicate savory filling. A dessert version of this dish was also served, with banana in the center, turning a saturated red hue from the low heat, and drizzled with rich coconut milk and a basil syrup.

Sweet and savory banana-wrapped logs of sticky rice - Photos by Wasabi Prime

A perfect orb of tapioca pearl dough, filled with shrimp and taro were presented in a pool of tart, savory broth, eliciting many comments that it was almost too perfect to eat. Okay, almost too perfect, as this playful dish was happily enjoyed and a favorite of many guests. A familiar wonton, fried golden and crisp, sprinkled with shavings of green onion, had a lovely, satisfying crunch. My personal favorite was the crepe-like sheet of rice batter, wrapped around Kurobuta pork shoulder and mushrooms, over a bed of bean sprouts and herbs, with more matchstick-thin slices of the Vietnamese sausage sprinkled over the little oblong-shaped dumplings.

Pretty as a pearl - tapioca pearl dumpling. Photo by Wasabi Prime

Monsoon East’s beautiful food made it a tough act to follow, making one wonder if they could make something with such precision and flavor complexity, but ever the teacher, Andrea Nguyen shared a tutorial over the basics behind making dumpling skins from scratch, and how easy it can be. Granted, because of the wide array of Asian ingredients in stores, people can buy them, but Nguyen brought up the point that unless it’s an Asian market where you can buy the skins freshly made, chances are the pre-packaged items will be too old and rubbery, plus she stressed that how once you make this simple dough from scratch and sample its chewy, toothy texture, it will be difficult to imagine buying premade dumpling skins again. Water, unbleached flour, a pinch of salt, an egg, and cornstarch for dusting are all that’s needed to make the dough to form any number of wontons or spring roll dumplings. Mixed in a food processor to form a ball and left to rest, Nguyen explains that forming the small discs of dough can be easily done with a small wooden dowel and a tortilla press. She explained that by having the fresh dough, creating a seal is easier, as no water will be required as the glue, plus the dough will have more flexibility, therefore more forgiving of overfilling. Nguyen went through a quick tutorial over the different styles of folding dumplings, which are also shown in straightforward illustrations in her book, but stressed that it doesn’t have to be perfect, as no matter what the shape, it will still taste delicious and twice as satisfying knowing you made it yourself.

DIY dumpling skin tutorial - you can DO it! - Photos by Wasabi Prime

It was an inspiring experience, sampling the delicate flavors and textures of the Vietnamese-style dishes prepared by Monsoon East, as well as listening to Andrea Nguyen share the gospel of the humble, yet revered dumpling. Her book, Asian Dumplings, is both educational and a reminder that food doesn’t have to have an ivory tower mystique about it – these are foods that have been prepared for generations of people, by many with no formal training, simply a shared love of food and family. This is a great lesson to take away from the growing movement to make cooking more accessible again, reconnecting people to the ingredients and their own kitchens.

Beautiful tea paired with delicious food - Photo by Wasabi Prime

A great Wasabi Thanks to Andrea Nguyen for both her book and her inspiration to get me out of the habit of buying pre-made dumpling wrappers, Sophie and Eric Banh for hosting and preparing the amazing meal at Monsoon East, the team at Gruman & Nicoll for organizing such a lovely event, and special Wasabi thanks and appreciation to all the fantastic foodies, bloggers, writers, and Tweeters I got to meet at the event.

FoodTrek: Fall/Winter Preview Night at Monsoon East

An opportunity to sample the fall/winter menu from a local acclaimed restaurant? By all means -- head East, young Wasabi, to Monsoon East in Bellevue! I've had the pleasure of visiting the newer Eastside kin of Seattle's Capitol Hill longtime favorite, as shown in a previous post. It's always a treat, as it's in the small and charming Main Street area of downtown Bellevue, full of several neighborhood darlings. Sibling founders Eric and Sophie Banh have done a wonderful job transplanting the hospitality and dining experience of Vietnam into the Emerald City. This night in particular was special, as a birthday was being celebrated --Monsoon East's own!

Cheers to you, Monsoon East! Deadly Nightshade, indeed, as I could drink these all evening - photo by Wasabi Prime

Along with the occasion of the restaurant's first annivesary in its Eastside locale, it was to celebrate their new membership with the Bellevue Downtown Association. Local business owners gathered for an open house, in the cozy setting of Monsoon's private dining area. Nestled amongst the solid wood walls and the gauzy fabric panels, the party was a comfortable, relaxing place to meet and chat with neighbors.

Guests were greeted with what I have to say was my favorite cocktail of the night, the beautiful Nightshade, a Halloween-appropriate femme fatale of a drink, served in a petite cordial glass with a storm of movement lurking behind its dusky color. Sweet, fragrant and bubbly, basil seeds are added to the cocktail and the fizz makes the ethereal pods dance in the light. Flavored with the lilac-colored liqueur, parfait amour, the drink is blessed with the delicate and beautiful vanilla, orange and rose flavors of the liqueur, as well as the lightly crunchy texture of the seeds.

Plates of bite-sized menu items were placed on the table, one after the other. The chill of winter may be upon us, but the bright colors and flavors suggested otherwise as guests were treated to a wide array of tastes. Spicy and fresh papaya spring rolls, smoky shrimp skewered with snow peas, and one of my previous favorites, their creamy tuna tartare on a crisp taro chip -- I wish I could say I remember all the wonderful nibbles, but I confess to being overwhelmed by the endless parade of dishes and just let the flavors carry me off to Happy Food Coma Land. This is why I'd make for a lousy restaurant reviewer -- I stop taking notes halfway through and just get lost in the garden of edible delights!

Savory and sweet, so wonderful to eat! - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Just like the food, it's easy to become swept away by Monsoon's hospitality. They provided cocktails with each wave of menu samplings. Continuing their nod to Halloween, the Nightshade was followed with the sloe gin and orange flavored Satan's Whiskers, a masculine-looking cocktail that could easily steal one's soul for a night. A tart, deeply-flavored plum cocktail followed, with a white chocolate dessert drink that went beautifully with Monsoon's signature banana cake. Served with a basil syrup, the cake was a reminder that herbs, when properly coaxed, can be as much of an ally to sweet as they are savory dishes. I was told that owner Sophie Banh is the gatekeeper of the restaurants' distinctive library of sauces, and that they are a valuable and beloved family secret, ensuring the hand-crafted touch of the owners across their menu.

In many cultures around the world, the keepers of knowledge are regarded as living treasures, so both sides of Lake Washington can consider themselves amongst the lucky and thankful to have such dining treasures as the Banh family sharing their dining and hospitality with both Seattle and Bellevue.

Happy Birthday, Monsoon East! Wishing you many more years of luck and delicious success.

FoodTrek: Monsoon East - the Raw and the Cooked

What, no one appreciates silly Britpop late 80s album titles? Well, this Fine Young Cannibal went with a partial gathering of the Happy Hour Martini Mafia to explore a bit of Ye Olde Main Street of Bellevue. It was a pleasant evening, the clouds parted ways to reveal the beginnings of a rosy sunset, and we had the pleasure of experiencing the Vietnamese cuisine of Monsoon East.

What lies behind door number one? Papaya salad, please. - Photos by Wasabi Prime

With all the excitement over new food/retail metropolis The Bravern opening this week, and the crowds that usually gather around the Lincoln Square hub, Old Bellevue's Main Street, with its independent boutiques, family-run restaurants, and general quaintness, is often forgotten. Better known to Eastsiders and Bellevueites living close to the downtown area, it's an easy walk from the many residential buildings nearby. It's a stretch of road that encourages meandering, with window displays and inviting storefronts on both sides of the street. One of my favorite restaurants, Bis on Main, is there, as well as local haunt, 520 Bar and Grill. Even though it's since closed down, one of the best dive bars, The Mustard Seed, had also once called Main Street its home.

New things in Old Bellevue - Photos by Wasabi Prime

A new Main Street/Martini Mafia favorite is most definitely Monsoon East, the Eastside sibling to the Monsoon located in Capitol Hill. Approaching the entrance, the thick, heavy door feels like a gateway to a holy temple. A hefty pull and you enter into a serene, open space full of delicious smells and an icy display of fresh shellfish for their raw seafood bar. Monsoon East took over a space that had once been a high end market. The area where the deli counter once was, now sits a cozy bar. Small sitting areas are scattered in front of their large windows, creating a friendly lounge space. When the weather is nice, it's an easy place to sit, eat, and people watch.

Go on, be shellfish and have some. - Photo by Wasabi Prime

We set straight to business, ordering a flurry of dishes, both raw and cooked, from the happy hour menu. Trying a bite of this and a smidge of that, we enjoyed a variety of flavors and textures. Sweet, spicy, sour, fragrant -- all descriptions that are synonymous with Vietnamese dishes. Fresh ingredients with a mix of preserved morsels made their papaya salad a refreshing start. We were expecting a strong hit of spice typical to this dish, but they kept the heat to a minimum, letting the punch of the vinegar dressing punctuate the freshness of the salad ingredients. A string of raw dishes followed: a spicy albacore mixed with a citrus aioli and nestled in a tower of taro chips; poke tuna with a swirling nest of ogo (seaweed); a tart and fragrant carpaccio with the beef sliced paper-thin and sprinkled with crunchy peanuts -- everything had delicious, clean flavors that left one wanting to order second helpings or at least figure out when another visit was in order.

Any more raw and it'd be wriggling. And still delicious. - Photo by Wasabi Prime

The cooked items were just as enjoyable, as we nibbled on familiar bar food fare like their sweetly spiced crispy chicken appetizers and shared a dinner menu serving of the drunken chicken in a savory, sweet sauce. I think my personal favorites were the raw bar items, as they struck the perfect balance of flavor and texture. I noticed on their menu that they have a mangalitsa pork fried rice, which sounds like heaven -- I'm making a mental note to return for just that reason, and maybe a bit of the caramelized kurobuta pork belly. You know it's a good place when you're already making menu plans for the next visit.

It's been said that the people and culture of Vietnam conjure an enchanting spell over visitors, leading them to cast their Westernized lives aside and become fully immersed in the natural beauty that surrounds the region. With the inspiration of an expatriated (and hungry) character from a Graham Greene novel, Monsoon East made me feel like I never needed to return home.

I feel like spicy-chicken-wings-tonight, like spicy-chicken-wings-tonight! - Photo by Wasabi Prime

*Post Script - Big thanks to Foodie View for making the poke tuna their Foodie View of the Day! Thanks also to Serious Eats' Photograzing for also posting this photo!