FoodTrek: My Pidgin Kitchen

In Hawaii they speak a form of Pidgin English, which is basically a language mish-mash of the different cultures that make up the islands today. There are Native Hawaiian words, Japanese, Chinese, etc., all tossed together with English and smashed together... well, like a big loaf of Spam. And that's just what the food culture in Hawaii is like, a mish-mash of different cuisines that all manage to work well on the plate, even Spam. Especially when it's in fried rice.

Sweet chili chicken with Spam fried rice - ono kine grindz! - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Mixed Plate: Tastes of a Journey and Local Bites to Cure Hawaii Blues

I meant to post the Hawaii-goodness sooner, but you know how it goes after you take some time off: the plunge back into the work week, battling an insistent cold likely picked up from the gazillion germs shared on the plane... you know, life. It's all the stuff that happens in that long space of time called Not on Vacation, which after a while, reminds you that you need more Being on Vacation time. Can anyone say "Hamster in a Wheel?" Bah, that's just the work week talking! Well, here's all the ono kine grindz that's fit to blog, plus my new outlet for when I'm feeling the craving for local flavor. Let the Hawaii Hot Tub Time Machine begin!

Pineapple in bloom -- who knew it could look like this? - Photo by Wasabi Prime

I spent the first part of my trip in Kaneohe, on the island of Oahu. Most of Wasabi Mom's family is on this island, so I get to spend a couple of days hanging out with aunts, uncles and cousins. I love it. It's nice and relaxing. I get to see how big my cousins' children are, get a slice of local politics, and of course getting caught up on what everyone's up to. And "what everyone's up to" of course means, "x-number of days until the next visit to Las Vegas." My family isn't the only ones obsessed with The Ninth Island -- anyone familiar with real Hawaii-livin' knows it's all about doing the waltz with Lady Luck and hoping you come home Big Winnahz. The one thing I've learned about traveling is that it's a very personal thing. Magazine covers showing off far-off exotic lands in East Asia or the urbane sparkle of Paris are showing that because it's what they think that you think you should be seeing. And they're not wrong. But no one's going to die of cultural malnutrition if you don't hike to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro and try to Foursquare it like a d-bag. I go to Hawaii for the thing that surpasses its beaches, volcanoes and rainforested vistas -- the ohana of family. And oh yeah... dessert.

The best views in town - natural flora and fauna... and baked goods - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Hawaii has amazing bakers, both professionals and home cooks. I'd like to believe it just feeds into this mentality of celebrating the sweetness of life because in the Aloha State, people are so happy-go-lucky! It really does take me a day or two, just slipping into that rhythm of mellow Hawaii-normalcy, which is probably better for your health, at least until someone brings out the dessert tray. I got a chance to sample one of the award-winning cupcakes from Honolulu's Hokulani Bake Shop. They had just won on an episode of Food Network's Cupcake Wars, which had aired less than a week before I came. They were understandably on Cloud 9, selling out fast, but my cousin Deven was quick on the draw, getting a box of their signature sweets and their coveted award-winning flavor, a chocolate cupcake with vanilla frosting, topped with a Port wine reduction and a preserved cherry. The original version on the show actually had a bit of cow's tongue on it; it was treated like how you've seen some add bacon to a cupcake. Don't ask me, the Cupcake Wars show seems to take sociopathic pleasure in making their bakers use bizarre stuff as a challenge. They had one where sardines were an option. What is wrong with you? Do you secretly hate cupcakes? Because that's a surefire way of ruining one's sweet tooth for like, ever!

But sweeter times won out, and I did enjoy Hokulani's goods and very glad they were victorious in Cable TV-Land. Their cake consistency is fluffy, really light; it's different from the heavier cake consistencies that the Seattle area cupcakeries lean towards. Hokulani's consistency that's very in-tune with Hawaii cakes -- fluffy and airy. Chantilly cakes, chocolate Dobosh/Dobash -- these are all signature cakes you always find in Hawaii bakeries and they're really delicate and spongey. I'm sure it was a result of living in a hot, humid place where you don't want your sweets to weigh you down. If you do want something truly rich, hop a few islands over to the Big Island of Hawaii and visit E-Claire's Bakery, in Hilo. E-Claire's is right next to the Hilo Library, perfect for walking to after trying to teach my mom how to use the internet and learning how overwhelming modern technology is. We admired the lovely cakes, but erred on the side of restraint and picked out a couple of their perfectly-sized mini eclairs. They're about the length of your palm, but with a punch of richness, since it's a split pastry filled with thick, chilled Bavarian cream, and the top is covered in chocolate ganache. Much like the Hawaii-style of creampuffs, the filling isn't light and fluffy,  it's more like a thick mousse or pudding. Oddly, the baked cakes are light as air, but the cream fillings are heavy like a stone -- go figure. I wasn't complaining because the eclairs of E-Claire's were lovely and I was glad we got the minis to-go, I'd probably have eaten like five more of 'em. *burp*


The only volcano you ever want to enjoy, one filled with melted chocolate - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Even when I was wandering the lava fields, marveling at Mother Nature's majestic power and the awesome might of Madame Pele... I was thinking of dessert. I rode shotgun with my friend and old UofA pal, Lauren King, who writes for the Virginian Pilot and is an awesome person. This was her first visit to Hawaii and she very wisely chose The Big Island to explore. We of course went to Volcanoes National Park, which pretty much takes the whole day to get a basic exploration of it. If you want more details about the park, I have a much bigger post here, from an earlier trip. On this trip, we did our exploring and finished off our adventure back in Hilo, at the fabulous Hilo Bay Cafe. Tasty ahi tuna poke, cold Kona Brewery beers and sweet, sweet molten chocolate cake in the shape of a volcano. We didn't just explore a volcanic natural wonder... we ate one, too!

Hawaii loves pink food, you should know this - Photos by Wasabi Prime

I arrived on the Big Island on 3/3, which is traditionally Girl's Day or Hina-Matsuri in Japan, if you're up on your obscure international celebrations. It's not so obscure in Hawaii or anywhere that has a fairly large Japanese-origin population. A springtime festival meant to celebrate young girls and bestow blessings for a happy future, it's generally marked by the decoration of special ceremonial dolls depicting the imperial family and eating girly-looking mochi. While living in California, on Girl's Day, we all brought our ceremonial doll collections into school and could wear our kimonos. It was fun. Girly Halloween with toys we're not supposed to touch. It wasn't until I moved to Yee-Haw Arizona that I realized how totally weird I was and nobody did that kind of crazy thing in Red Blooded America-ville. Lesson learned. But being in Hilo on Girl's Day, I had a lovely tray of fresh mochi from Two Ladies Kitchen waiting for me. And it was my favorite kind -- simple, no filling, with pretty colors! Their amazing shop gets featured on TV or articles because they do the real-deal for traditional mochi making. And they make these beautiful fresh whole strawberry-filled mochi cakes, but it's seasonal, so just keep an eye out for those if you happen to be in their shop.

Beyond Girl's Day, there is a surprising amount of pink food to be had. I had some fresh mochi from KTA, the local grocery store, which should honestly be the model for all local grocery stores. KTA sells a lot of locally-made products, in particular, the cute little wedges of pink Chi Chi Mochi (sweet milk rice cake) made by Gladys Harada. She's an amazing cook -- she makes the mochi for KTA as well as for local fundraisers, all in her home. She also makes her own strawberry-vanilla ice milk, which is like the Maui-style guri-guri ice cream. Normally it's not my favorite, but her secret recipe is perfect; not too sweet, just right. She made a special batch for us when she came over for dinner -- Gladys is also one of my dad's classmates and there was much discussion over their next high school reunion. In Vegas, of course. Welcome to the city of Hilo -- everyone's either related and/or went to school together. It's just that kind of town.

Shopping the market for hooker soap and sending some Aloha home - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Of course I went to the farmers market, and after admiring all the fresh tropical goods, I went for my usual stops, getting some Kau coffee (Kau is the new Kona, don't you know?) and the Filthy Farmgirl folks, who always have labels that make me L-O-L. I bought an armload of coffee and soaps, which could have been roughly stuffed into my carry-on bag without prompting the ire of any TSA worker, but I opted to do my usual Hawaiian Suitcase and mail everything home in a handy-dandy USPS box. Even the US Postal Service has some serious Hawaii Love, as they have special boxes just for Da Islands. They know everyone has to ship stuff Priority Mail if you want something sent without spending a month on a barge.



It's spectacular, but it's no Spam Musubi - Photos by Wasabi Prime

 I'm always sad to leave. And it's not because I'll miss spectacular waterfalls and incredible ocean views. Like I said before about travel being a personal experience, I go to paradise for personal things that will likely never appear on any Top Ten Lists. I looked forward to every morning taking a walk through the neighborhood with my mother. I loved sitting in a crowded living room with all my family, having dinner and having our typical "couch family portrait." I even appreciated seeing the high price of gas being offset by a Vienna Sausage supersale at Longs. It sounds so mundane, but it centers me. And having a locomoco lunch that my dad cooked for us is pretty awesome.


The everyday views of Hawaii that I love best. Maybe not the gas prices or the bugs - Photos by Wasabi Prime

So of course I return to Washington with a Hawaii Hangover, a yearning for simple pleasures, the familiar sound of Pidgin, and that kind of home-cooked flavor that's an umami unlike any other. What's a Hawaii-bereft, katonk girl to do?! I was so glad to have found The Box on Wheels. Adding another patch to a delicious quilt of food trucks in the Seattle area, The Box is like a trip to Hawaii without spending all your frequent flyer miles. They make stops all over the Eastside; check their Facebook page for the most updated schedule. Chef and owner Reis Llaneza is not only from Hawaii, but born in Hilo -- super-duper awesomeness. He makes fantastic food with local Hawaii roots and a nod to the Northwest's love of mixing flavors and super-fresh ingredients.

The Box's Chicken Karaage - so ono kine! - Photo by Wasabi Prime

I don't have to say much, because The Box's food will speak for itself. It's just wicked tasty, or "some good!" if you were from Maui. Chicken Karaage - crispy, sweet with a little spice: so ono! Newest menu item, Kalbi Kushiyaki, with marinated beef skewers and their house made sunomono pickles: plenty ono! Their pork hum bao, one is smoky shreds of kalua and the other is a sweet, rich slab of pork belly: ridiculously ono! Really wonderful food and I'm just super happy to see local Hawaii folks who can bring the cuisine style to the Mainland and get more people to really dig into Island-style grindz. True, it's not exactly like what someone else would make at such-and-such a spot on this particular island, but that's the point, people are innovating with food all the time, and these dishes are perfect for the crowds here wanting something different and really flavorful. It's something unique -- not all Hawaii and not all Washington; the perfect blend of both places, and it all tastes like Home.

Find the Box on Wheels. Eat lots of yummy food. Repeat as necessary - Photos by Wasabi Prime

FoodTrek: Don't Listen to that TLC Song - Go Chase Waterfalls, Especially in Hawai'i

Don't go chasing waterfalls... The hip hop trio of TLC clearly never visited Hawai'i. This song is bogus! Contrary to their advice, you should chase waterfalls. Because they're quite pretty. And chase other adventures when visiting the island of Hawai'i because you know what? It's a great excuse to have a big, delicious meal to reward your adventuresome stomach -- I mean spirit. (If you've never heard of TLC or the song Waterfalls, I feel ooooooooold.)

I'm ignoreing TLC's musical advice - chasing after Rainbow Falls in Hilo - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Who doesn't love a stunning tropical pastoral? Rainbow Falls at Wailuku River State Park is such a beautiful spot, and have been visiting it since I was a kid. Plus it's a picturesque waterfall worth exploring that's literally right in the heart of Hilo on the island of Hawai'i, which means you can spend some energy taking a good walk around the area to get your appetite going for a big, delicious meal at Hilo Bay Cafe. This visit to the Cafe was a first for me! I'd never gone before, and was joined by fellow food blogger and artist, Devany Vickery-Davidson, who writes the Aloha-tastic My Hawaiian Home. She's a great source for island events and restaurants, and had delicious recommendations for Hilo Bay Cafe's menu, composed by Chef Joshua Ketner, who crafts beautiful dishes composed of the fresh produce from local growers on the island, as well as products produced by neighborhing islands. They source organic produce where they can, and the menu changes regularly based on seasonal items.

Island-fresh dishes from Hilo Bay Cafe - Photos by Wasabi Prime

We ordered several wonderful things, thanks to Devany's keen palate -- their carpaccio of paper-thin local beef drizzled with oil, fried capers and radish microgreens; a layered  roasted eggplant parmesan custard with rosemary bread; fresh ono (aka, wahoo, a local fish) and hearts of palm ceviche with purple Ali'i/Okinawan sweet potato chips; and a mushroom wellington filled with roasted portobello mushrooms, gorgonzola and red peppers served on whipped potatoes and asparagus. Devany had raved about their jalapeno martinis, which was a lovely mix of fire and ice, with the slow heat of spice that lingers between the salty brine of blue cheese-stuffed olives and the refreshing cool of vodka. This is a popular drink that's usually made with Ocean Vodka -- a locally made spirit at a distillery in Maui -- but it's so popular, that people literally drank all the Ocean away! But the cocktail is just as dandy with my favorite, Grey Goose.

I have to say the carpaccio was my favorite -- it's not something I get to indulge in very often, and the local beef is outstanding. Tender, delicate beef flavor, with the rawness allowing for sharpness of the capers and other elements to balance everything very nicely. I enjoyed all the dishes, which had that element of freshness that you just can't fake. If you get a chance to visit, just order from their specials menu to get whatever's right off the tree, vine or fish hook.

If you want to venture out into the area where restaurants like Hilo Bay Cafe gets lot of the fresh produce, drive out near the Hamakua Coast area, north of Hilo. The inland region is hilly with a lot of farmland, with a stunning view of the ocean along the coastal drive. And yes, there's waterfalls! Plan a stop to see Akaka Falls near Homomu, another really beautiful tropical vista. You'll get a chance to see a lot of the native plants and rainforest setting, which is a dramatic comparison to the farming areas, giving you a sense of how the land has been transformed. Akaka Falls is much higher waterfall than Rainbow Falls; there's paved steps that wind their way to various lookout points. It's an easy enough walk, but don't worry, there's plenty of steps to build up your appetite for a new food adventure!

Hilo Bay Cafe tastes and sights from Rainbow and Akaka Falls  - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Of course I enjoy going to my favorite local-style eating places when I'm in the Hilo area. Nori's Saimin and Snackshop is my Thursday lunch spot for getting my saimin fix -- I say Thursdays because that's the day my parents are always there. If you are ever in Hilo and want to see Wasabi Mom and Wasabi Dad in their natural food habitat, Thursdays are it! We also visited the 'Imiloa Astronomy Center Cafe, the restaurant that's on the side of the center. It's like the hidden food gem for lunch and dinner, as who would think of heading to a planetarium for a nice sit-down meal? They have a regular buffet, but one of my favorite things is their Taiwanese-style beef noodle soup. But probably my favorite meal is the one that proves food tastes better outside. Call in your bento order first thing in the morning to the old Kawamoto Store in downtown Hilo on Kilauea Avenue. It's an okazuya-style bento shop, which is to say, Japanese comfort food, primarily from Okinawa.  Spam musubi, nori-wrapped fried chicken, fried cutlets of pork tonkatsu, housemade kamaboko fish cakes -- all the local favorites that have been tweaked for Hawai'i tastes, like the availability of bright red hotdogs from Maui. Simple, inexpensive, humble food that are all delicious when eaten outdoors, sitting along the rock wall overlooking Hilo Bay, near Coconut Island. I do this at least once during every visit with my family, and it's always at the top of my eating/sightseeing list of recommendations!

Eating local-style at 'Imiloa's cafe and Kawamoto Store's bento in the lbig little city of Hilo  - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Another winning combination of sight-seeing/tummy-filling island adventure would be to chase down some lava in Kalapana and make a stop in Pahoa to visit Kaleo's Bar and Grill for dinner. This is the perfect combo of off-the-beaten-trail sightseeing and the reward of ono kine grindz after a long day. (I know, I keep saying this phrase -- ono is Hawai'ian for "good" or "tasty" and yes, it's also the name of the fish, which was deliciously named, and well, "kine" and "grindz" is just Pidgin, which you can probably suss out for yourself.)

The hills of Kalapana are alive with the sound of Wasabi - Photo of me taken by Robin Rockey, rest by the Prime

Kilauea was super-active while I was visiting, and the Kalapana lava flow in the Puna district is one place to literally see where man meets magma. It's not really a typical place to visit; it's just a public road, at the end of Route 130, which comes to a pretty abrupt halt as there's old, cooled lava that's blocked the rest of the way. This area has houses with people living off the grid (no running water or electricity) in houses that are in the direct path of active lava flows when Pele decides she wants to stir things up. You're shaking your head, saying, "Why, why, WHY would you live in such a treacherous place?" Well, the ocean view is stunning to say the least, and it's a wide open space straight out of a Martian landscape, composed of old lava flows made wrinkled and rippled with serpentine cooling patterns, and odd sprouts of ferns peeking from every crack. From what you can see of the homes, they're all equipped with the combination of solar and wind power, plus gas-powered generators, and there are rainwater catchment systems on all the houses. You get a bit of a contact high of the exhilaration of relying so heavily on nature's conditions and living in such proximity to its destructive path, especially when you see remnants of homes that the lava did end up claiming. Don't think this is like Pompeii -- the lava does flow through here, but it's slow and the people who have chosen to live in this area are ever-vigilant and know when to allow their home to be consumed by Pele. You can drive your car out and park alongside the highway -- definitely bring flashlights, as remember, no streetlamps -- and at sundown, you can see the lava on the not-too-distant hills. They come out like reddish orange stars in a night sky as dusk settles.

You may feel invigorated with hunger after staring into the brute force of the Earth's core. Well, I know I was feeling a bit peckish. On the way back from Kalapana, you should drop by Kaleo's Bar and Grill in the center of Pahoa. The town of Pahoa is totally what I envision when I think of Hawai'i. No sandy beaches or deep valleys carpeted in rainforests. Maybe it's from spending many summers in upcountry Maui, in little towns like Makawao, but I love the one-road main streets lined with old clapboard buildings, gravel parking lots in back, and the off-the-beaten-trail atmosphere of little towns. Although Kaleo's isn't totally hidden, as they've been awarded a Silver Hale 'Aina Award by Honolulu Magazine, so clearly, this Island Find is Island Found.

Bidding adieu to Pele and Aloha to Kaleo's in Pahoa - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Kaleo's gets busy. You wouldn't think such a little town would have so many people, but I'm fairly certain they all show up here for dinner. But that's a good sign of good food. Get reservations if you've got a group of people, but they do have a small bar area with open seating if you're just looking to drop in for a short spell. The food is sort of the Hawai'ian fusion cuisine that's very popular, preparing traditional native dishes in unique ways like wontons filled with kalua pork, but always relying on the strength of local, fresh ingredients. I had the Kaleo's Lemon Chicken, whch prepared chicken breasts with local spinach and goat cheese, in a lemon caper sauce. Flavorful take on a chicken Florentine-style dish, with the citrus of the lemon and sauteed spinach keeping the dish bright to balance the creaminess of the goat cheese. Their poke was prepared with big chunks of ahi and the addition of avocado chunks, which I really liked. I'm used to the more small-chop, traditional style of poke, and the use of ogo (seaweed), but their version had a sesame dressing and had a lighter flavor, letting the ingredients' natural flavor shine through. Save room for dessert -- their lilikoi cheesecake is fantastic, and probably my favorite of what I tried that night. Passionfruit, despite its romantic name, is kind of a funky fruit. I wouldn't call it totally sweet, as its got a complex flavor that's strikingly aromatic, but almost a rounded bitterness to it. I didn't realize what a great pairing lilikoi and creamy cheese makes. It sort of perfectly represents a lot of this Hawai'ian/Western fusion cuisine, taking ingredients that in their native menus would probably never have been put together, but in the natural fusion culture of Hawai'i, these delicious combinations become possible.

When I get a chance to return to Kaleo's, I think I'd like to try something off their Local Favorites part of the menu, which had things like kalua pork and cabbage (my dinnermates said it was really good), and kal bi ribs. I did indulge in a frosty beverage that The Dude would totally abide by -- beer from Kona Brewing Company. And I did also have a beer from the local Hilo brewery, Mehana. Both are great breweries and I'd like to explore them further on another trip, but I have to say their already good beers somehow taste extra good in Hawai'i.

FoodTrek: Farmers Market Finds and a Picnic with Pele

Where else but Hawai'i can you do a brown bag lunch with the gods? I was fortunate to visit the Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park on the big island of Hawai'i, to experience the powerful mood of the Native Hawai'ian goddess Pele, within her fiery home in the active Kilauea Volcano. But one can't show up to Pele's house empty-handed. A visit to the Hilo Farmers Market yielded a big lunch of fresh local finds and ono kine grindz to power a full-day's trek through the national park, plus a later trip to the Kona Farmers Market was like another adventure in fresh food finds.

Fantastic view of Halema'uma'u Crater, home of the goddess of fire, Pele - Photo by Wasabi Prime

When you're faced with a full day of walking through a geological history of the Hawai'ian islands, you better be prepared. And by prepared, I mean know how to get your grub on. I've written about how fantastic the Hilo Farmers Market is in previous posts, and it's one of the best ways to supply you with fresh energy for a full day. Located right in the historic downtown area of Hilo, on the corner of Mamo Street and Kamehameha Avenue, it's a large open market that has a combination of crafts, prepared foods and fresh produce. Bring cash, as most of the vendors won't be able to handle credit cards or check -- don't worry, you don't need much more than $10 worth to gather a good amount of food. Little box lunch bento of teriyaki chicken with musubi rice balls, Filippino style noodles called pancit, or fried cutlets of pork tonkatsu can range from three to five dollars, and fresh fruit like whole bunches of apple bananas are as cheap as a dollar, easy snacks that travel well and come individually wrapped. There's sweet treats like butter mochi, a chewy rice cake dessert, and there are vendors that now offer things like herbed goat's milk chevre and fresh-baked breads. Get a little loaf of bread and a bottle of local honey or guava jelly and you've got the makings for a delicious sandwich lunch. Don't be shy about trying something unique like fresh starfruit which can be sliced and eaten as-is, having a kind of bright pear flavor, or the scaly dragon-skinned soursop, which once split open, the pulpy, custard-like fruit has a subtle citrus/banana like flavor. Bunches of red-maned rambutan are easily found, where all you need to do is break open its red skin, peel it away, and eat the grape-like fruit that tastes similar to lychee --  just eat around the seed. Don't forget to try the small pear-shaped mountain apples, or Malay apples, waxy red-skinned fruit that have a lightly sweet flavor and contain a lot of liquid, acting as a good hydration fruit during long hikes.

Dragonfruit, mountain apples, apple bananas, orchids, rambutan; not your average market - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Having a cooler packed with the farmers market finds, it's less than an hour's drive to the Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. I've been visiting this park for as long as I can remember, going at various times when Kilauea was both sleepy and especially active. While the idea of visiting a national park may induce snore-worthy memories of family vacations gone horribly awry, the best thing about visiting the house of Pele is that she is a fire goddess that does not disappoint and it's a park who can boast that it's always in a state of flux -- what you see today, you may not be able to see tomorrow. Pelehonuamea is the legendary diva of record, featured heavily in local myths, known as much for her beauty as for her power and fury. When you come to her house, come with respect and a desire to learn about the natural history of the island. Kilauea is is one of the most active volcanoes in the world, but one of the youngest among the island of Hawai'i's family of active volcanoes, which include Mauna Loa, the largest volcano on Earth, and Hualalai, the third most active on the island. The park is set up in a way that makes it easy for people to tour the area by car, or if you choose to tour by bike or foot, there are backcountry planners and bike guides available. You can do overnight camping on the park grounds as well. The main thing is to plan accordingly -- read up on the Things to Do page of the Volcanoes National Park site, as they will have suggested supply lists, weather and air quality conditions, and the need to check in so rangers know where to locate you in case of emergency. For the $10 price of entrance into the park, it's quite a lot of activities available for the outdoor enthusiast.

Exploring the geologic and mythic history of Hawai'i with Ranger Dean - Photos by Wasabi Prime

OK, so maybe you're not ready to get down with your Bear-Grylls-Man-vs-Wild-bad self -- I spent just a day at the park, on a ranger-guided tour of the park. This was a great thing to take advantage of, as it's included in your park fee and you can call ahead and arrange for a ranger to guide you for the day. I was very lucky to be paired up with the fantastic Ranger Dean Gallagher, who pretty much knows everything about the park and its fantastic ecosystem, explaining how the park is in a constant state of activity to preserve the indigenous and endemic animals and plants of the island. I'm sure all the rangers have this incredible amount of information, I just have to give props to the awesome Ranger Dean who made the day absolutely magical. We started out at the Kilauea Visitor Center, where you get the latest weather and air condition reports (good to check with if you have any health/respiratory issues), then taking the Crater Rim Drive that takes you around the massive Kilauea Caldera that includes the Halema'uma'u Crater, the legendary home of Pele. Along the overlook of Halema'uma'u is the breathtaking view of the crater, and during this especially active time, you could hear explosions of rock from within the crater every few minutes. It sounded like thunder and was a stark contrast from previous visits I've had to the same overlook where it's been such a peaceful view of a sleeping goddess. While the active lava is unable to be seen during the day because the crater is so deep, the park is open 24 hours and you can drive out there at night; if the conditions are right, the rangers said you could see the glow of the lava reflecting off the constant billows of steam coming up from the crater. For the day I was there, I was able to see the natural steam vents where rainwater is transformed into constant fresh billows of steam, Kilauea Iki Crater, the site of a 1959 lava flow, and take a tour through an old lava tube, the Thurston Lava Tube, including a flashlights-are-a-must tour of an unlit lava tube that was as mysterious as it was sacred, as Ranger Dean described how these tubes were used for both sanctuary for the Native Hawai'ians and burial areas, to protect the mana or strength of a person's spirit that remains within the bones.

The best restaurant and menu in the world -- Chez Mother Nature - Photos by Wasabi Prime

It's a lot to take in for an afternoon, you build up a volcano-sized appetite, so that cooler full of farmers market goodies is a welcome sight. And having a ranger with you to point out all the choice picnic spots is pretty rockstar. Ranger Dean guided us to a little covered picnic area -- there's several around the park, but it's nice when someone can guide you directly. A tablecloth was laid out and all the fresh foods were spread out for what was probably one of the best picnic lunches you could imagine. They say food eaten outdoors always tastes better, and food that locally grown and produced, eaten on the edge of an active volcano is pretty outstanding. Along one of the walks, we passed by a few 'ohelo berry bushes, a fruit endemic to Hawai'i, found nowhere else. They're edible berries, tart and tiny, somewhat labor intensive to pick, but often made into jams and pies -- highly recommended if you're lucky to get a hold of a jar or baked treat.

Kona Farmers Market and fresh cacao pods!! - Photos by Wasabi Prime

It's hard to totally kick the farmers market addiction when you're in Hawai'i. Not that we don't have farmers markets where I live, it's just hard to let go of the abundance of such exotic items. Even when I was in Kona, the siren song of their farmers market located right on Ali'i Drive couldn't keep me away. Open Wednesdays through Sundays, I got a chance to do a quick walk-thru before I had to catch my flight. If I was there for a few days more, I'd have bought more of the addictive Maui Gold pineapples, which are sweeter than anything you can get on the Mainland, or fresh mango that were being sold for a pittance of what you'd pay at home. One of the Kona market vendors was selling fresh cacao pods, explaining that if you wanted to make cocoa powder from scratch, you just have to remove the seeds, dry them, and then roast them before grinding into pure cocoa powder. It sounded similar to how coffee is produced and I'm now inspired to try it, if I plan my next visit to Kona accordingly and can take over my mother's kitchen for a few hours. Another good thing about visiting this market is that it's where the locals shop. Granted, there's plenty of inexpensive souvenir stuff that's probably made in Taiwan, but look past the trinkets and you'll see an abundance of fresh flowers like anthurium, live orchids, and spiny huge protea blooms. You're literally surrounded by walls of fresh flowers. There were handmade ti leaf leis, plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, and probably the item of most interest, Kona coffee. Everyone sells Kona coffee, but the pricing can vary, based on the percentage of pure coffee harvested locally. While I'm no Kona coffee stock market ticker, comparing the prices from the different shops along Ali'i Drive, the prices in the farmers market was probably the best, ranging from $13 to $15 a pound, whereas other stores were selling their coffee at $18 to $20 per pound. And again, we noticed this is where the locals were buying their coffee, and that's a good indicator of where you'll find the best prices.

I find myself back in the chill of the Pacific Northwest, dreaming of warm farmers markets and picnic lunches, but it just reminds me what's waiting for me on my next visit back to the island of Hawai'i. Don't think this tropical blog adventure is over; I still have more tales of Aloha to come, so stay tuned for eating guides meant to fuel busy days on land and sea! To continue the spirit of Aloha, please visit the American Red Cross site and donate to help the relief efforts to aid Japan's recovery in the wake of the recent earthquake and tsunami disaster.

Fun and funny stuff at the Kona Farmers Market - Photos by Wasabi Prime

FoodTrek: Breaking the Foodie Rules on Hotel Eating - and Loving it

Travel and food writers often say, don't eat in the hotel, go out and explore, lest you become fully absorbed into a Jabba the Hutt-like resort repose, addicted to pillow mints and pay-per-view movies. Well, maybe not the Jabba the Hutt part, but the general advice tends to lean towards hotels being the HQ for luggage and sleeping only, which normally I'd tend to agree. But being the Wasabi Rebel that I am (no tattoos or regrettable piercings required), I'm here to say, rules are meant to be broken, especially when it comes to Hawai'ian hotel eats, from dusk till dawn.

Aloha morning from the Queen's Court at Hilo Hawaiian Hotel - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Spending some extra time on the Big Island of Hawai'i, I had the opportunity to explore less as of a local who just hops from one family's guest room/couch to another, and more as a true visitor. I was able to visit the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel along the eastern coast city of Hilo (aptly named hotel, no?), the Royal Kona Resort and the Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort, both on the western Kailua-Kona side of the island. These are all hotels centrally located within the main center of their respective cities, so if you're looking for a place to stay that doesn't feel like you're totally isolated, these are all good options. More importantly, the reason why these hotels break the "no eating in the hotel" rule is that they take advantage of the fact that they're in Hawai'i, a land blessed with fresh, readily available ingredients. No heat lamp-warmed baked potatoes and sickly, limp chicken cutlets swimming in a murky bernaise. The food prepared is vibrant and takes cues from its surroundings. True, a vacation should be something that takes you away, but the place you're staying at shouldn't take you even further from where you've traveled so far to reach.

Flavors of Queen's Court and sights of Liliuokalani Garden and Mauna Kea - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Hilo Hawaiian Hotel is located along the main street of Banyan Drive, with a view of Hilo Bay, and walking distance to the nearby Queen Liliuokalani Garden, a Japanese fish pond park that's one of my favorite places to go for a picnic or a nice walk. It's one of the original hotels in Hilo and a popular place to stay during the big hula festival in April (28th-30th), Merrie Monarch Festival. It's literally the Superbowl of hula, with people traveling from around the world to converge upon the city, so if you're planning on visiting and not a hula aficionado, come any time of the year except the end of April, just so you can save yourself the extra hassle of trying to find a room, as the whole city gets taken over. But 99% of the time, Hilo is a relaxing paradise. A perfect way to start the day would be to wake up around sunrise to see the first glow of morning's light start to fill the sky, and if the air is clear, you can see the peak of Mauna Kea in the distance. The air is still cool, but warm enough to inspire an early walk over the little bridge to nearby Coconut Island (an old Navy training area, now a favorite picnic spot), or a stroll through Liliuokalani Garden. The tidal pools will be low, you may see small fish jumping in the still waters of the seawater ponds flowing in and out of the hilly park. There's no sound of busy rush hour traffic, just the early morning breeze and the rhythmic cooing of little grey doves that are everywhere. And then you'll hear a low rumble. That's your stomach saying it's breakfast time.

So head to the hotel's Queen's Court Restaurant for breakfast, with Executive Chef Piet Wigmans helming a menu of traditional dishes mixed with local flavors. During my stay, I had a beautiful fresh papaya topped with yogurt mixed with locally-grown vanilla and mixed with tart slices of apple bananas. A little wedge of calamansi (sort of like a tart key lime) adds a quick splash of brightness. I also had a wedge of frittata that had savory chunks of pipikaula, Hawai'ian style beef ribs, and chopped warabi, wild fiddlehead fern shoots that taste a bit like asparagus or broccoli. Eggs Benedict gets an island twist with lilikoi (passionfruit) flavored hollandaise and slices of Portuguese sausage, and even the pancakes get a little Aloha, as the batter is mixed with poi, and topped with a coconut syrup. Sure, breakfast is a hard thing to do wrong, but these extra flourishes made for a distinctively local way to start the day.

Picture-perfect views and tastes at the Royal Kona Resort - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Heading to Kona, on the western coast of the island is like going to a totally different island, not unlike traveling west to east, across the state of Washington or Oregon. The climate change is dramatic, going from lush green to dry and rocky -- and hot, so bring your sunscreen SPF Gazillion, pale Northwesterners. People think of the entire state of Hawai'i as being all sandy beaches and swaying palm trees, but throughout the islands, there are varying climates, from rainforest to desert. The island of Hawai'i is one way to experience multiple environments by staying on a single island, driving from Hilo to Kona. Taking the scenic route can be a couple of hours, so it's worth spending a few days in Kona to really enjoy it. It may be late afternoon by the time you get into the rocky shores of King Kamehameha's hometown, and you'll be looking at your watch thinking, hm... it's Mai Tai-thirty. What, your watch doesn't say that? Eh, time for you to get a new watch, braddah. I checked into the Royal Kona Resort along the busy main street of Ali'i Drive and immediately went to their open-air Don's Mai Tai Bar, overlooking the setting sun over Kailua Bay. The waves literally crash against the bar! This hotel is uniquely set right against the sea and is a big supporter of the annual Ironman Triathlon, held within walking distance of the hotel, by the pier -- if you're an Ironman fan, book early for October, but if you're just wanting to relax with a fruity drink and minimal crowds, there's 11 other months that are just as good for a visit. Royal Kona's Chef Jason Ito was there to present some cocktail hour pupus, which included my favorites: sashimi-style ahi (tuna), spicy ahi poke (a Hawai'ian style ceviche of raw fish, onions, peppers, garlic and salted ogo, or seaweed) and satay skewers of chicken and vegetables with a spicy peanut sauce. Mushrooms from the Hamakua area of the island were also served, a deliciously local vegetarian option. I was especially glad to see so much produce being sourced not only locally, but from the island itself. Even in the local grocery stores, you can find vegetables from Hamakua, and I personally think the tomatoes from that area are superbly ono kine -- super sweet and not acidic like most tomatoes.

Mahalo to Chef Ito for preparing such an ono kine menu - Photos by Wasabi Prime

The fresh food had my head spinning, I nearly forgot to drink my Mai Tai! I'm normally not one for super sweet cocktails, but when in Tropical Rome, do as the Tropical Romans do, and the sweetness balances out the savory eats like the spicy ahi poke. It's fitting to have a vintage umbrella-bedazzled cocktail like the Mai Tai in the 1960s-cool surroundings of the Royal Kona Resort. During their happy hour, they have a great xylophone player who plays all the retro-cool classics, with the crashing surf in the background. I liked their Mai Tai sampler, which is four of their signature Mai Tais made in mini form. It's a smarter way to sample without becoming Paradise Lost in the span of a night. The sampler includes smaller Mai Tai versions of their Pele, Original, Topless and Green Flash. They were very fruity and sweet, and I was recommended to try their Plantation Mai Tai, which was a little less sugary and supposedly closer to the original recipe. I was starting to feel the sleepiness of the day's travel take over, so I vow to save the Plantation Mai Tai for another day. The ocean waves were still crashing dramatically, throwing a mist of white foam into the night air, and I have to say, it was another reason why it was nice to have a delicious meal and a cocktail right downstairs from your room -- a restful night was just an elevator ride away, right past their most excellent chandelier shaped like carved fish hooks that I couldn't stop taking pictures of.

Sunset dinner and manta ray viewing at the Sheraton Keahou Bay Resort - Photos by Wasabi Prime

What makes it easy to break the rule of spending too much time at the hotel, aside from the restaurants' ample use of fresh ingredients, is the ease of enjoying some of the most beautiful views of the island. Unless you have access to a private seaside home or are super-BFF's with Paul Allen (he's got a ginormous house right along the Kona coast), you can't beat an evening of food and drinks between views of a misty mountain and crashing waves, and an evening show of manta rays swimming right in front of you. A little ways up from Ali'i Drive, on Ehukai Street, sits the impressive Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort. It's a little further out and doesn't have direct beach access, but their higher cliffside location feels like you're on the edge of the world, with the views of the green, forested mountain behind you. Where you feel the direct spray of the ocean along Ali'i Drive, you feel you're a bit closer to the clouds and the faraway whisper of the sea in this location. I had the pleasure of talking with the hotel's head Chef Eric Lelinski, who left the Mainland for paradise and never looked back, fully charmed by the ease of fishing trips and the ability to serve meals from farm to table. He spoke of the pleasurable abundance such fresh ingredients harvested throughout the islands, both land and sea, being able to serve fresh-caught fish like wahoo or ono (pictured above), along with ahi wrapped in nori and lightly fried, topped with a tartly sweet chutney of local fruits. He combines two sides of familiarity, Island and Mainland, which I think makes visitors new to Hawai'i more open towards trying something new. A traditional dessert of jello-like haupia, or coconut pudding, may not be what a first time visitor would crave, but haupia layered with sweet purple ali'i or Okinawan potatoes, on a shortbread crust feels more familiar for someone used to Western/European desserts.

Combining familiar with exotic flavors in Kona's tropical oasis - Photos by Wasabi Prime

One of the most unique things the Sheraton offers is a first-row look at manta rays swimming off their viewing area in their Manta Ray Bar. It's open to all visitors, even if you're not a guest of the hotel. After a sunset dinner, you can gather at the lookout to see dive boats anchor off the deepwater shore and shine bright lights to attract the microscopic plankton or krill, creating sort of a moonlight buffet for the manta rays that live in the waters surrounding Kona. Every night, on Mondays through Saturdays, they have half hour complimentary talks about the local manta rays, explaining their life cycles and interesting notes like the fact mantas can live for decades. The history of the hotel is that prior to it becoming a Sheraton property, it used to have a saltwater pool in the location where the manta viewing area is, and the mantas used to come by even when the pool was still there, attracted by the lights that attracted their food source. It's interesting to think that the same mantas that roam the waters today are ones that were there from years before -- talk about repeat business! The nighttime dive tour boats garner most of the manta activity, as their lights are stronger, but you get a great view of an eerie brown wingspanned creature, flying through the surface of the water, with maybe a tip of its wing flipping up, showing its white underside. It's also quite a sight to see the snorkelers paddling around with noodle-like flotation aids, en masse, to gather around the lights and see the mantas glide about. It's weirdly wonderful to watch from the viewing area. Especially with a happy buzz of a ginger cosmopolitan to ease one into a moonlight night.

It's important to mention that none of these hotels were seriously damaged during the recent tsunami that came as a result of the terrible earthquake and tsunami in Japan. While as a precaution, everyone in the flood zone was evacuated and the people in Hilo and Kona were able to avoid harm, thanks to the incredible tsunami emergency system that's in place throughout all the Hawai'ian islands. This fact of nature is just a part of living near the ocean, and it's a reminder of the power and beauty of being surrounded by such paradise. Don't feel intimidated by the recent events, instead, if you find yourself on the shores of Hawai'i, take a moment for a deep breath out of respect for the ocean and the life it sustains. And if you haven't already done so, please head to the American Red Cross or other relief efforts that are providing aid to the people of Japan affected by the terrible disaster. Part of Hawai'i is a sense of ohana, or family, and that includes sending goodwill and Aloha to all who need it. Thanks and Mahalo -- stay tuned for more posts about Hawai'i eats, coming soon!

Mixed Plate: Going on Island Time for Two Weeks

By the time you read this, I will already be gone....to Hawaii. But don't worry, I'm only going to be absent from the blog for a couple of weeks and will share all the Island adventures upon my return. Call it a Saimin Emergency, the need to be Spam Musubi-ed, or maybe just a chance to spend a little downtime with family -- I'm trading the shades of evergreen for a more tropical variety. But just for a little while.

Even a Wasabi needs a break now and then - Photo by Wasabi Prime

I will of course be Tweeting and hopefully posting Facebook photos if the WiFi gods smile favorably upon me! I'll be spending time on the Big Island, in both Hilo and Kona, so traveling beyond my usual 'hood. Stay tuned for updates and I'll see you on the flipside.

On a totally non-food related note, I'll sadly be missing the Emerald City Comicon in Seattle while I'm gone, but if you are going, please please please look for GB Tran and his new graphic novel, Vietnamerica. He'll be traveling to Seattle all the way from NYC to represent his book, sign copies, and just be his usual clever, friendly self. It's a beautifully drawn and written account of his family's journey from Vietnam to America during the chaos of war, and the complex struggles that arise from cultural displacement. I can't say enough wonderful things about this book and the incredible talent of my good friend GB who boldly tells such an emotional story with unflinching bravery. Whether you'll be at Emerald City Comicon or just wandering your local bookstore, do give his book a read, it's truly a labor of love.

Mixed Plate: Hangin' Around in Hilo-Town

I recently took some time off to see my parents in Hawaii before the mad dash of holiday travel began. For this visit, I spent the whole time on the Big Island of Hawaii, in the city of Hilo. It doesn't have the bustling energy of Waikiki or the powder-soft sandy beaches of Maui. It's a city with a deliberate slow pace, its rhythm conducted by the people who have lived there for generations and don't seek out big changes. People like my father grew up there, they often went off-Island for work or school, and in their golden years, they return because it's a place that debunks the saying that you can never go home again. Hilo is a small city built by the plantations, rebuilt from several destructive tsunamis, and continues this day to retain its sense of identity in the currents of changing times. Come along with Wasabi for an insider tour of the big little city of Hilo Town.

Fresh leis at the Hilo Farmers Market - Photo by Wasabi Prime

I didn't grow up in Hilo, but spent a lot of time with family during summers. My childhood memories wander the old streets and neighborhoods, residing like ghosts in time, awaiting my return. When I'm there, it's like entering a cocoon of emotional comfort, locked out from the distractions of the modern world, and the opportunity to reacquaint oneself with one's center. It's a place to slow down, allow the day's events to be dictated by delicious meals, and remember the importance of little things. My little things were mundane things like flossing, taking my vitamins and going for daily runs -- all the stuff that had been driven off by false needs like deadlines and the annoying buzz of email. None of that in the no-wifi-zone of my parents' house, and good riddance.

Getting to Hilo, snapshots of a journey - Photos by Wasabi Prime

The Hawaii I know is the small towns and cities of my parents (my mother's hometown is Makawao on Maui), which for the most part have been untouched by the tourism industry that the state heavily relies on. I admit to a love/hate thing with arriving at Honolulu Airport and seeing the throngs of tourists wearing loud Hawaiian shirts and plastic flower leis, being herded off to a canned, shrink-wrapped view of what the outside perception of Hawaii is. It's not just a place where you sit on a beach and order syrupy cocktails and drink yourself into a sun-baked oblivion. That's like spending hundreds of dollars to shove your head in the sand and miss the fact that you're in one of the most culturally diverse and mystical places you'll ever set foot on in the fifty states. You traveled this far to experience Aloha -- for heaven's sake, let yourself be immersed in it before renting jetskis or buying a cheap snowglobe that was made in Taiwan.

The best views and eats in town from Noris and Kawamoto Store - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Getting to know the heart of Hawaii is spending time in small cities that aren't completely invaded by national chains. Steer clear of the usual morning latte break at Starbucks and cast aside that lunch run to the Golden Arches. Hilo is full of small restaurants and Japanese-style comfort food shops, or okazuya, which all specialize in the local tastes and flavors that people have grown up with. Shoyu chicken, Spam musubi, cone sushi, saimin -- try it all, because it's delicious and been favorites of the locals as far back as the plantation days. My childhood still plays in the low tide waters of the Queen Liliuokalani Park, by the edge of Hilo Bay. I have many scraped knees from slipping on the garden's lava rock ponds while trying to gather bait for fishing trips on my grandpa's boat. We would always bring a giant bento from Kawamoto Store on Kilauea Avenue, to keep our stomachs from grumbling too much so as to scare away the fish. The original family no longer runs the Kawamoto Store, but it continues to make ono kine bento lunches that sell out before noon, so my mother orders lunch early, we pick up our box of goodies, and spend at least one sunny afternoon eating local kine grindz on the Bay. There is no longer my grandfather's boat to ferry us to the open seas, where the salt spray mixes with the food, but eating lunch with my parents, overlooking the water and a volcano sleeping in the distance beneath a cover of clouds, it's absolutely true that good food tastes even better when enjoyed outside. And please remember the SPF.

Visiting those who have passed on - Photos by Wasabi Prime

When I go back to Hilo, it's as much to feed the soul as it is to fill the stomach. While I can only be best described as a jack-Buddhist and Richard Gere will totally achieve Nirvana before I do, I try to be diligent with my parents, to visit the ones who came before us and pay respect to the loved ones who have passed on. Funerary rituals aren't anything new -- everyone has their own rites of observance. In Hawaii, it's as much about co-mingling with the dead as it is with the living; celebrations like O-Bon, the festival for the dead, interjects that need for remembrance and setting a place in one's daily life for those who have departed. It's a weird thing to say, but you'll never see a more colorful and well-kept cemetary than when you visit Hilo, or any other city in the Islands. The dead are never forgotten, and their resting places are a vibrant reminder of the life they led. We did our part to visit the resting places of family and friends, replace the withered flowers with fresh anthurium bought at the farmers market, and wash the black granite family markers so that the sun could dry them to a proper shine. At the risk of having some bad karma chase me down, I took a few photographs in the columbarium where some of my family rests. It's not a somber, depressing place. Instead, it's full of fresh flowers, hanging leis, and private notes from loved ones. It's a place where a little sadness and happiness can come together to mingle with the smell of incense, when the wisps of smoke from the sennenko rise into the air. And best of all -- the matchbooks left near the altar are all usually from Las Vegas. Because even the dead can appreciate a trip to Nevada.

Snacks, quiet morning time, folding gyoza and trips to Longs - excitement abounds! - Photos by Wasabi Prime

If food is love, then I'm very, very well loved when I'm in Hilo. I indulge in snacks I don't regularly get to enjoy, I take advantage of the sale days at Longs for local foodstuffs, and eat the best meals in town, which are always cooked by Mom. I was glad to refamiliarize myself with that magical morning ritual of morning coffee, a pastry of some sort (either a malasada or a crumpet), and the newspaper. Yes, they still make those, and there is nothing quite as heavenly as hearing the birds chirp, the coffeemaker sputter, and feeling the paper between one's hands as you take your time to get settled into the new day.

Tailgate food with Aloha plenty - Photos by Wasabi Prime

I also managed to visit during college football, and more specifically, when the University of Hawaii was playing. Happily the Warriors won their game - Go 'Bows! My parents host game viewings at their house, so UH friends gather, there's plenty of things to graze on and I got to enjoy an old food friend known as the Maui red hotdog. Alarmingly red. Scandalously red. And outstandingly delicious when topped with all the typical hotdog condiments and a hefty sprinkle of smoked pork that the neighbors brought. That addition was my own design, and I highly recommend it. Don't let the bright color scare of you off; they're no different than a crunchy, tight-skinned hotdog from anywhere else, but the bright red makes it distinctively local.

Suffice it to say, Wasabi Mom fed her little Wasabi Prime real, real good - Photos by Wasabi Prime

In between stuffing my face with too much food, I took a very belated visit to the 'Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawai'i. Don't roll your eyes and think it's just another planetarium or place for space geeks to hang out. This is one of the most unique places to experience the stars and the way humans have felt the influence of the heavens drive one's destiny. It's a museum that is one part science and one part Native Hawaiian culture. And they have cool 3-D movies shown in their planetarium theater.

Visiting 'Imiloa and being blinded by science - Photos by Wasabi Prime

At the risk of sounding like an informercial -- if you're in Hilo, make it a point to visit 'Imiloa. It's part of the University of Hawaii and it's educational in both science and culture, so yes, it's wholesome family fun. It's not like visiting other astronomy museums where it's more about looking up and not looking around to see where the curiosity about the universe emerged. Their exhibits are about enabling the spirit in the heavens and how it brought people to the islands of Hawaii to make it the place it is today. I can't even point to True North, and these guys hopped in a boat and navigated their way to a tiny chain of islands.

Mosaic telling the tale of Hawaiian navigators, one meticulous tile at at a time - Photo by Wasabi Prime

And, as a bonus, 'Imiloa is probably one of the best hidden food gems in town. Their latest vendor who's handling their restaurant is bringing in the crowds for their dinner, so make reservations if you go. We were there for lunch, and their spicy beef noodle soup and signature shrimp were pretty tasty. Science, stars, local culture... and plenty ono salt and pepper shrimp? What more could a person ask for??

Visit 'Imiloa - come for the science, stay for the buffet - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Going to Hilo is never complete without a visit to the Hilo Farmers Market. There's actually several in town, but the largest main one, on the corner of Mamo and Kamehameha in downtown Hilo, is the one most people visit. I like this farmers market because it's a real working market. It's not full of cheesy tourist junk (OK, there's some of that) and the goods aren't outlandishly priced so that makes it impractical for locals to just get their weekly groceries. It's real food, locally grown and priced to sell so that it makes it on someone's dinner table that night. That's it. Nothing fancy. This is the way a farmers market should work, and it gives the national chain grocery stores that barge in their produce underripe and overpriced a run for its money.

Farmers market goodies - musubi, spicy chilis, anthurium and starfruit - Photos by Wasabi Prime

The fruits and vegetables are all things people use on a weekly basis. Staples like green onions, fresh ginger, taro root, papaya and guava. There are uniquely local items like warabi, the tall stalks of baby fiddlehead ferns that grow wild in the Hilo rainforests and are made into salads. Exotic fruit like the fuzzy-skinned rambutan or spiny dragon fruit are everywhere. Funny enough, it's the simplest things that my mom says she misses -- like a crisp apple or pear. Basics like that have to come from the Mainland, where fruit is picked too early and left to ripen in dark holding containers. It's a reminder to be thankful for what we have in our own backyards.

Warabi, rambutan, more anthurium and tart apple bananas - Photos by Wasabi Prime

But I'm still green with envy at the fact that the growing season is pretty much year-round in Hawaii and there's always a treasure trove of fresh goodies at the market. I realize that's probably why they can price out their produce so reasonably. But it doesn't change the fact that I still turn into Gollum, seething about The Precioussss every time I walk the aisles of the farmers market and ogle all the goods.

Your food brain will overload at the Hilo Farmers Market - Photos by Wasabi Prime

If you're still reading this, I applaud your patience. Or perhaps I should just nudge you, as you've probably fallen alseep by now. Hilo is little town that most visitors to Hawaii would probably overlook as boring or too far past its prime, but for me, it's the ideal place to recharge and refocus. Visiting a place like Hilo is a way to experience a genuine part of Hawaii not influenced by fake grass skirts or hokey luaus, and not a paper umbrella drink to be seen. This is a city where good local food and meals are ritual, treasures abound if you're keen to look for them, and the ghosts of the past walk freely among the living. And there's always time for coffee and the morning paper.

Mahalo plenty, Hilo - I will see you soon - Photo by Wasabi Prime

OMG a Recipe: C'mon Baby, do the Locomoco

I send my Aloha wishes to all who didn't totally ditch this blog after I was gone, like for-evah, the last couple of weeks while I was visiting my family in the Maholla-back state of Hawaii. Have no fear -- the Prime is BACK!! There was sun, sand, surf and I saw none of it because I was too busy stuffing my face with comfort foods. I promise to share more details very soon, but until things get organized, here's a little at-home taste of local cuisine, the Hawaiian equivalent of meatloaf: The Locomoco!

The hell with your pineapple-covered creations, THIS is the taste of Hawaii! - Photo by Wasabi Prime

The Locomoco epitomizes local eats in that it's simple, hearty and plenty salty if you use the Hawaiian rock salt seasoning in the hamburger. You can get this dish in nearly every restaurant, including fast food chains who have adapted their value meal purgatory to local tastes. Yes indeedy, the Golden Arches has it, but I'd just assume get the fried rice version at Hilo's own Kuhio Grille. I've heard different stories about where the Locomoco originated from. I'd like to believe the rumor that it came from the Big Island, right in Hilo Town, inspired by a need to feed the local football team, the Lincoln Wreckers, quickly and without much fuss. I'm of course biased because Hilo is the city where my father is from and he played on that team. But much like the origin stories of Marvel superheroes, the genesis of the Locomoco is subject to change, alternate universes spring up out of nowhere, and before you know it, we're all eating gravy-doused burgers with Adamantium forks growing from our X-Factor mutant hands. And yet I still think the Locomoco would taste just as  good.

So, Wasabi, how the heck do you make a Locomoco? Easy enough because here's the recipe: steamed rice, hamburger, fried egg, brown gravy. Done. That's it. There's been variations using fried rice, different gravy, poached or scrambled egg instead of fried, Portuguese sausage instead of hamburger, or no gravy at all, just a drizzle of shoyu (soy sauce). There's no real "secret ingredient," but if you can get a hold of the Hawaiian seasoning, which is a mix of big chunks of local rock salt and dried peppers, ginger and garlic, it adds a nice extra zing. Plus it's a non-liquid so TSA doesn't hassle you if you're bringing bottles of that stuff back with you. I don't normally use the powdered packet gravy, as the title alone is dubious at best -- "Brown Gravy Mix." What the hell -- do you take one part "brown" and one part "gravy" and mix? Insanity. But who am I to challenge tradition, as that's what a lot of people used for their quickie Locomoco meals, including Wasabi Mom.

I vow to revisit the classic Locomoco and try to make it a little more dressy, maybe with a bit of risotto, some caramelized onions and a poached egg, but still try to remain true to its homeskillet delicious charm. Until then, stay tuned, I promise to share some photos of the recent trip my stomach took on its last visit with the Wasabi Parents for the year. Till then, fry up a hamburger, steam some rice and Locomoco to da max!!

Putting the Loco in Locomoco - Photos by Wasabi Prime