Wednesday, September 30, 2009

FoodTrek: Cheese, Glorious Cheese at Artisanal Brasserie

I had a serious case of lactose bedazzlement when I visited Artisanal Brasserie, newly opened in Bellevue's luxe retail fortress, The Bravern. I had been very fortunate to preview the restaurant before it opened, getting a peek at the space, meeting chef/owner Terrance Brennan, and seeing where all the lovely cheese would live behind climate-controlled glass, served on a chilled marble bartop. This caused much excitement to build. Finally walking through its doors with fellow blogger and Francophile, Ms. Radish and Rosé, the sight of the stocked bar du fromage and the massive leg of jamón ibérico was simply too much. The Prime was blinded by the science of cheese!

Raising the bar of meat and cheesy goodness - Photos by Wasabi Prime


The lovely people of Artisanal took great care of us that evening, especially in my cheese shellshocked state. The waitstaff are knowledgeable over the dishes and aware of preparation. The sommelier is the most charming fellow you'll be lucky to meet, and he'll steer you in the proper direction for a food/wine pairing. We were brought nibbles to sample, an amuse bouche of tempura style cheese, served up like a bouquet, sitting on skewers set in a rock salt and pink peppercorn-filled glass. Indulgent, simple, and comforting, we pulled each fried puff off the skewer and experienced the childhood joy of pulling each one apart, watching the melted cheese ooze between each pull, in between sips of bubbly sparkling wine.


Can anyone go wrong with fried cheese? I didn't think so. - Photos by Wasabi Prime


My mind buzzed with possibilities when I peered over the menu: meats and seafood all prepared in a French style, but dashes of modern twists -- I saw a pork belly appetizer served with a cucmber kimchi. This was Ms. R&R's second visit, so she had already experienced their lovely hangar steak and frites, along with their delightfully airy gougères, and she had nothing but buttery-good things to say about their rich and earthy escargot en croute. I pondered just getting a couple of the appetizers, but I decided to save that for a night in the bar area, having a bottle of bubbly and then snacking on things like the soft egg sardu, steak tartare, or the duck and foie gras rilletes. And definitely a charcuterie platter, as that Spanish ham was just taunting me the whole night. Let that be considered a plan of attack on my next visit!


Diving into some diver scallops - Photo by Wasabi Prime


This visit, we went with the diver sea scallops served with a blood orange grenobloise and cauliflower, and a chicken "under a brick" seared to crispy flat perfection with a potato puree and rich garlic jus. Nothing terribly fancy or fussy, just quality simple ingredients, prepared well, and extremely enjoyable as we snapped photos, talked food, and were reminded of the simple joys in life.


Chicken under a brick - it's bricken good! Photo by Wasabi Prime


Too sated to order dessert, we were still treated with a platter of sweet samples, compliments of the chef. It was the perfect end to the meal, a tray full of small bites ranging from buttery pistachio cookies, rich chocolate brownies, a light fruit jelly candy, and our favorite -- a buttery citrus petit madeleine. For a restaurant's menu too full of good choices, it was the best possible way to end the night with a sweet flourish.


So full... couldn't have another bite.. OH! Dessert? - Photo by Wasabi Prime


I always say the sign of a good restaurant is one where you're already planning what to order next, on a near future visit. I think I have the next three orders lined up in my head, and that's not even counting the neighboring Italian-styled Artisanal Table Pizzeria and Enoteca. This was my first experience at a Terrance Brennan restaurant and I was not disappointed. I've been a fan of his work for a long time, dreamily reading about his work at Picholine and all the ways he reminds us of the complexity and joys of cheese, and just food in general. I love the attention to detail in the restaurant, from the printed paper mats on the tables to the casual bistro elegance of the interiors. The printed napkin rings even have the recipe for their signature macaroni and cheese printed on the backside. They want you to walk away from the experience with an inspiration to have your own food adventures, and I think that's a commendable thing. The enjoyment of food is as much about the camaraderie of dining mates in a restaurant as it is the experience of making the food itself in the comfort of one's own home.

If God is in the details, the Almighty loves cheese, too. - Photos by Wasabi Prime


Happy fromagerie thanks to the people of Artisanal Brasserie. We had a lovely time and we appreciate your patience with us wacky food bloggers as we snapped away with our cameras at each dish of lovely food. I'm definitely planning another visit, as I know Ms. R & R was aiming to sample the Sunday brunch. Looking forward to hearing her report on her blog!

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Monday, September 28, 2009

FoodTrek: Getting Schooled at the Sorrento Hotel

Robert Hess isn't a bartender, but he can make a better martini than you. He's never served behind the barrier separating drink-maker from drink-taker. But he is an avid collector of bygone times, and the keeper of anecdotal evidence behind the American invention that is the cocktail. Creator of the spirit-friendly website, Drink Boy, a published author on the subject of frosty beverages, and on the board of directors behind The Museum of the American Cocktail, Robert Hess has earned the rare distinction of being respected by individuals on both sides of the bar. Thanks to the centennial Sorrento Hotel, their own love of history has brought forth a regular series of events called Night School at the Sorrento Hotel: Drinking Lessons, where bartenders and spirited chroniclers of note are invited to give a discourse over the fine art and provenance of well known spirits and drinks.

Welcome to Night School at the Sorrento, where homework is awesome - photos by Wasabi Prime

Drinking Lessons could not have been held at a better location. The Sorrento Hotel is a lush and sumptuous altar to a lost era. Upon entering their Hunt Club bar, one immediately feels visited by old ghosts haunted with the ennui of the Volsted Act and beyond, emanating from the cozy dark wood paneling, with the warm flicker of candles to light the way to the stage-like bar.

It's difficult to imagine pop culture without dry martinis and pink cosmos, but it wasn't until the early 1800s where the first citation of a cocktail appeared in publication, defining it simply as spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters. Citing notes from old ledgers and literature over the subject of beverages known to fuddle the head, Robert Hess brought up one quote that seemed an apt opener for the evening; in regards to cocktails and politics, a mixed drink seemed a worthy instrument for a candidate, because a person having swallowed a glass of it, is ready to swallow anything else.

Ye Olde Fashioned when it was still New Fashioned - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Befuddlement aside, Hess made it a point to extoll the virtues behind the craft of making a proper cocktail. Much like composing a recipe for food, a mixed drink should possess a complex flavor profile meant to amuse the palate more than knock the sobriety out of it. He insisted that a true cocktail shouldn't be all one flavor, be it sweet, bitter or alcoholic burn, but instead be a careful balance of all three. An example of this balance would be the Old Fashioned, which at the time of the early 19th century and not being particularly old, was simply named a Whiskey Cocktail, as it was one of the first of its time. Instructed by our teacher for the night, the Old Fashioned is composed of 2oz rye whiskey, a splash of simple syrup, and 2 dashes of Angostura bitters. Putting empty glasses before everyone, we were allowed a hands-on demonstration, customizing our own version of the first whiskey cocktail.

Hess bemoaned the suffering the Old Fashioned has had to endure over the years, being topped off with water to make the drink seem more full and muddling of fruit that left the drink pulpy and over-sweetened. While not a slave to garnishes, he admitted that a simple curl of orange zest is flavor enough to infuse the drink with the essential oils, enhancing the flavor of the whiskey and herbal bitters. Anything beyond that and it's a salad and probably best left for frathouse keggers.

The explanation over what put the "old" in Old Fashioned coincided with a mystery drink Hess began to mix in a vintage silver kettle. By the time 1862 had rolled around, cocktails were at a high point, all using a combination of similar ingredients. The use of Italian Sweet Vermouth had become en vogue as an alternative to bitters for its distinctive herbal flavor, but at the turn of the century, something new had reached American shores: French Dry Vermouth. This new ingredient offered a new flavor profile to drinks, creating the option for cocktailians to order a drink in the new or old fashioned style, hence the Whiskey Cocktail becoming of vintage form. The mystery cocktail Hess mixed included gin, orange bitters, and the "old" Sweet Vermouth. Pouring this drink into wine glasses, the rich amber liquid blushed against the light of the candles and we all sampled the pleasing results. The flavor was warm and caramel-sweet, with the lingering of the citrus bitters. Hess pulled his ta-daaaah for the evening by informing us that this was the original martini.

Mystery Drink...minus the olives - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Holy eff -- and the Midnight Symposium for the F-word wasn't for another week! What about the crystalline pool of gin or vodka? The whisper of Vermouth? Does James Bond know?? How could this be the genesis for what we've all come to know as a martini? And where the hell are the olives? Hess explained that many of the original recipes for cocktails became lost to Prohibition, when the keepers of the spirits fled the country for less-teetotaled shores. In the absence of bartenders, it was left to the devices of high profile individuals like politicians and celebrities to define what it meant to order a stiff drink. These were also individuals most likely to be raging alcoholics, so it was like the monkeys were running the zoo. The bitters went AWOL, the vermouth became a hushed whisper, and the culinary martini became the alcoholic modern martini of today.

Classic Martini, as poured by Robert Hess - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Not to completely abandon all hope, Hess mixed a true classic martini, composed of three parts gin, to one part Dry Vermouth, and a dash of orange bitters. Still possessing the spirit of the original martini, the classic had a balanced flavor while retaining the familiar glassine appearance. It was made clear that if one were to order a classic martini at the Hunt Club, one would assuredly receive the cocktail properly made. Another way of ordering a martini would be "perfect," with an even split between Sweet and Dry Vermouths. I have to say the sound of a perfect classic martini sounds awfully good right now.
From Sept Photos

Thankfully, the good people of the Sorrento Hotel did not leave us stumbling and befuddled with Robert Hess' knowledge and cocktails. Between each drink, they served us with small bites that included a chicken liver pate on toast, a demitasse of pea soup, and a serving of potato gnocchi. I'll admit, Mr. Wasabi and I wound up at Kidd Valley with a cheeseburger and onion rings at the end of the night, but the nibbles between each cocktail helped get us safely ensconced in I-Can-Haz-Cheeseburger-land.
Closing Time - you don't have to go home, but you can't stay here - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Much appreciation to Robert Hess for educating the eager students of the Hunt Club classroom. Foodista was covering the event, taking much better photos than me, so I recommend checking out their post of the event, which includes the recipes for each cocktail and a more detailed description of the food served. Super duper golf clap to the Sorrento Hotel for creating the Night School series, which includes literary and music events, in addition to Drinking Lessons. They are continuing these through December, so if you get a chance to see any of the upcoming speakers, I think it will be both educational as well as entertaining. Go to the Sorrento website and email nightschool@hotelsorrento.com to reserve your spot for upcoming classes. Cheers to you!

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Friday, September 25, 2009

UnRecipe: A-Team Montage Meal

In 1972, a crack commando unit was sent to prison by a military court for a crime they didn't commit. These men promptly escaped from a maximum security stockade to the Los Angeles underground. Today, still wanted by the government, they survive as soldiers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire... The A-Team. (courtesy Wikipedia)

*Cue awesome opening theme music, totally rad all-black van with red stripe along the side, and lots of 1980s controlled pyrotechnic explosions*

I had a refrigerator full of random leftover ingredients from various meals. Something needed to happen, lest mass spoilage take over. And I had not the awesome manpower of Hannibal, Face, B.A. Barracus, nor their uncanny ability to break out "Howling Mad" Murdoch from the psych ward for yet another weekly hour-long episode. I took matters into my own hands. By the Power of MacGyver cooking, inspired by several seasons' worth of A-Team montages where the team inexplicably built a fully loaded armored vehicle out of some bailing wire and an old beater Volvo, I set to work, creating new meals of scraps and spare parts.
I pity the fool who doesn't like this blue cheese and tomato tart - Photo by Wasabi Prime

There was a bit of pie dough remaining from the goat cheese and roasted plum tart. I also still had a handful of fresh Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes from blog buddy, Picket Fence, as well as chunks of leftover blue cheese. It wasn't an armored tank miraculously pieced together to raise hell on some vigilante baddies, but a rustic blue cheese and tomato tart was certainly disarming on an edible level. I flattened the spare bit of dough into a rough circle, put a thin layer of fig jam (yes, I realize I'm addicted) on the bottom, crumbled the cheese over that, and dotted the whole tomatoes over the surface. I folded the edges in, so it created a low wall, and drizzled a bit of olive oil and lemon thyme over the top before popping it into the oven to bake itself to roasted cheesy goodness. Delicious results that would convince even the ill-tempered B.A. to agree to get on a plane.

The broiler hides all manner of odd-shaped vegetable scrap sins - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Waste not, want not, even if that includes melon-baller shaped scraps of vegetable innards that were saved from hollowing out several yellow table squash for the Meatless in Seattle post. I know, it's weird that I kept them, but there was enough to take up a big plastic yogurt container and it felt like a terrible waste to simply toss them. I was hell-bent with the conviction of Col. John "Hannibal" Smith, to use up those odd-shaped scraps. Sauteeing the squash with more refugees from the vegetarian meal like homemade pesto, and tossing with cooked penne pasta, I put the creamy mix into a baking dish, covered with leftover fresh mozzarella and parmesan cheese, and placed it under the blazing coils of the broiler to get browned and crispy. Sure, it wasn't fancy, but this impromptu baked pasta had delicious flavor of summer pesto with the rich creamy texture of melted cheese, and no remainders of the Meatless in Seattle meal went to waste.

Chorizo is just another way of convincing us that pork truly is a magical animal - Photos by Wasabi Prime

A-Team, meet the Protein Team. A cryogenically-preserved bit of chorizo from the Way-Back Machine of stuffed pattypan squash yielded two egg-themed dishes. The leftover savory custard from the goat cheese and plum tart filled a spare ramekin, which was partially filled with the chorizo, and a mighty meaty quiche was created. The remainder of the chorizo was mixed with some defrosted mashed sweet potato. I had a little container of roasted, mashed sweet potato also in the freezer, no lie. I made pan-fried croquettes from this mixture, browning the outsides and then serving them up with a fried egg over the top. Not quite sure what kind of dish that would be, other than simply saying it was tasty and filled with comfort food delight.

At the end of several weeks' worth of meal leftovers and wayward ingredients, everything found a way to be incorporated into a new meal. As Hannibal would say during each A-Team episode, I love it when a plan comes together. Amen, to that. *Freeze frame, then let credits roll *

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Wednesday, September 23, 2009

FoodTrek: Come to the Dark Side... It's Tasty There

My sassy good friend, Miss S, and I went out for drinks and nibbles after work, and we ventured through the gates of John Howie Steak at The Bravern for our first sample of the menu. It would have been heresy to have anything but a big, marvelous steak, but we went the way of The Dark Side, ordering offerings that could only be described as an indulgent breakfast. And then there were baked goods from Trophy Cupcakes, to ensure that the journey to the Dark Side would be complete!


Lord Vader sends his regards with this decapitated stormtrooper cupcake - Photo by Wasabi Prime


Actually, the Dark Side probably refers more to the cozy lighting in the bar at John Howie Steak, which is lovely and atmospheric for patrons, but somewhat problematic if you're a food blogger trying to get a photo for a post. I knew the quality of the photos would be iffy, but these happy hour bites were just too delicious not to share, even in their un-Tastespotting-worthy state.


John Howie Steak Eggs and Bacon - Photos by Wasabi Prime


We damned our aortas to hell and ordered the tempura-style bacon, lightly battered and fried to crisp perfection, artfully served like a lovely bouquet of swine in a pilsner glass. I could go on about how American eating habits are the source of so many nationwide health woes, but come on. Fried bacon. You know you'd order it too. A maple ponzu sauce was provided and while the thick slices are delicious on their own, fellow diners sitting next to us confessed that the bacon was merely an edible vehicle from which to imbibe the sweet, savory sauce. Maybe that's why the lights are dimmed, so as to hide one's shame in taking a little sip of the lovely dipping liquid...

Simple things can often be the most delicious and rewarding to eat. We hadn't seen deviled eggs on a menu in a while, and when the platter of halved gems appeared before us, it was clear these were not the bland, chalky hardboiled eggs one usually has over an uninspired salad. The tender little weeble-wobble egg halves were filled with a delicate mousse of seasoned yolks and topped with a crisp shred of bacon. Bacon and eggs. Nothing could be simpler or more breakfast-like, but with a crisp vodka martini and a glass of wine, it was elevated to something meant to savor.

Not wanting to commit complete heresy in a steakhouse, we ordered the tenderloin bites. Small nibs of butter-soft beef, in an Asian-inspired light citrus sauce and mandarin slices -- a lovely way to round out our dinner sampling. The menu offerings had a bit of the Pacific Northwest sensibility, mixing flavors from different regions, and also a bit of local quirk, with a sense of humor to include something like deep-fried bacon. I can appreciate that sense of fun with food, especially in a formal steakhouse. I will definitely return for no other reason than to try the hamburger I saw so many people ordering from the happy hour menu -- it was an impressive tower of beef, a criss-cross of bacon, topped with what looked like a baguette-like roll. I'll try and sit closer to a window or go early to properly document this burger of mythic proportions.


The Dark Side offers delicious baked goods - Photo by Wasabi Prime


We wandered a little of The Bravern, but I was pulled by the siren song of baked goods and returned to Trophy Cupcakes. Given the crowds the new shop has had to weather the last few days, it was a pleasant thing to see not many people in line and still a few cupcakes left, looking for a loving home and tummy. I picked up a few of their signature flavors: Red Velvet and Triple Chocolate, and also picked up one of the Wednesday specials, the Chocolate Chip Mint. The Red Velvet and Chocolate Chip Mint went to the Dynamic Duo Office Girls. Triple Chocolate got a Stormtrooper ring, and was presented to my Star Wars friend, Ms. StyleJustBe, who I know would have no qualms over going to the dark side of rich chocolatey cupcake deliciousness.


Cupcake love is a good way to finish a post - Photos by Wasabi Prime


* Post-Script: The Empire approves! The Stormtrooper cupcake pic was on FoodBuzz's Top 9, and the red velvet cupcake made it on Tastespotting and FoodGawker. Merci!

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Monday, September 21, 2009

FoodTrek: L’heure Verte at Naga

The Green Fairy. From the French nickname, La Fee Verte, it affectionately refers to absinthe, truly a spirit of delectable mystery, clouded in a louche made up of more of myth than fact. Beyond the threat of madness the drink rumored to cause, absinthe was the fanciful poster child for the bohemian movement of art and poetry in late 19th century Paris. The process of the halcyon green absinthe turning into a swirl of cloudy opalescence when water is introduced to insolubles within the liquor's ingredients was compared to the elusive spark of artistic inspiration. The Prime was given the opportunity to play avid spectator to the inspirational and artistic work of the ladies behind the bar at Chantanee's Naga for an evening, to watch them revive the bohemian spirit of turn of the century France at Rouge! A Ladies Night. Vive la bohème !


This Moxie Bird will put a feather in your cap, and a dent in your liver - Photo by Wasabi Prime


I've posted about Naga several times before, not just because I love Chantanee's Thai food, but because I always feel like I learn something when I sidle up to the bar. It's a rare treat to experience a place that has bartenders blessed with crazymadskillz to basically tell you what you should be drinking, and be right every single time. Adhering to their special Rouge! event menu, myself and some members of the infamous Happy Hour Martini Mafia took advantage of these unique cocktails and the opportunity to bend the ear of the very talented and award-winning guest bartender, Anu Apte of Seattle's Rob Roy bar (previously the Viceroy).

Along with the talents of Ms. Apte, the other ladies holding court at the bar were Chelsea North of Vessel fame, and Amanda Womack, one of Naga's resident bartender extraordinares. They were like the Charlie's Angels of bartending: fighting crime, solving mysteries, and mixing frosty beverages to save the world from boring appletinis.


Saffron Sandalwood Sour, Couturier, and the Nurse Chapel - prepared to be negronked - Photos by Wasbi Prime


The drink menu was a chef's table equivalent of unique cocktails, all a respectful nod towards past and present. Anu Apte's contribution were two drinks, the Saffron Sandalwood Sour and the Moxie Bird. The Sandalwood Sour was a subtle, fragrant whisper of a drink. Taking cues from her own childhood memories, the dusting of the sandalwood powder atop the cloud of egg white foam provided an aromatic prelude to the tasting of the gin-based drink, creating a really lovely experience that engaged all the senses. The Moxie Bird was the main course to the Sandalwood Sour's appetizer. Bourbon-based, the Moxie indeed had moxie. The floral notes of the St. Germain provided a nice balance, letting one really savor all the flavors in the drink.
It was reminiscent of a Manhattan, but a kinder, gentler version. One that would at least give you a sultry wink before knocking you to the floor.

I next selected a drink from the Naga home team, courtesy Andrew Bohrer, who authored the Star Trek inspired Nurse Chapel. I have much geek respect for someone who puts a drink on the menu called the 4d6 (the dice are epic, as is the potential damage one of those mystery drinks could inflict). Ultimate nerdy props to a spirited tribute to Star Trek creator, Gene Roddenberry's wife, Majel Barrett, who in the original series played Nurse Christine Chapel, prior to gaining intergalactic Betazoid Cougar status as Deanna Troi's minx of a mom. How dorkasaurus-rex is it that I know that? At least the drink was pretty awesome -- rich flavor of armagnac, the sweetness of the violet liqueur being balanced out with chocolate bitters. One flavor never fully taking over the other, the profile changing as the ingredients begin to coat one's palate. Captain Kirk would totally dig this Nurse.


The delicious and proper way to cradle the incoming booze - Photos by Wasabi Prime


Speaking of palate, our tummies were rumbling and the only answer to this call of the wild is Thai food. Thank god we were prepared! Chantanee's kitchen put together a special menu of nibbles for the night, and we feasted on bacon-wrapped sausages with spicy sriracha, crispy calamari salad, and my favorite, stuffed crispy chicken wings. The chicken wings were like protein-powered springrolls. They took chicken wings sliced with a small pocket, and then stuffed them with the familiar springroll filling. These were great choices, as they weren't too heavily spiced to compete with the featured cocktails.

Despite Andrew Bohrer's recommendation to experience every drink, I got four out of the five. I did not have the Couturier, but did sample it from one of my Mafiosos and fellow bloggers, Ms. SjBe . Created by the award-winning Jim Romdall of Vessel, this gin-based drink has the look of a prosaic Cosmopolitan, but the familiar blush belies its fresh and complex gusto. Anu Apte explained the Couturier's genesis, which came together as a result of an excess of fresh rosemary syrup and a bar full of models who like bubbly. Not overly sweet, the fresh pine flavor of the gin and rosemary combine nicely with the fresh citrus, and a hit of bubbly at the end to appeal to the inner-supermodel in us all.


The Green Fairy sends us off for the evening - Photos by Wasabi Prime


I credit Amanda Womack for introducing me to an absinthe that I thought was quite enjoyable, with or without the French method of dissolving a cube of sugar with a slow stream of water. The Swiss-made Kubler has a really pleasant flavor. I'm not a huge fan of anise, only appreciating it in small doses, and this particular brand of absinthe was smooth, sweetly aged, and with only notes of the licorice flavor to enhance the taste. There was no unpleasant burn or peppery flavor that I've found with other absinthe brands. Kubler's flavor is nuanced and complex, and when I ordered a glass of it, prepared with the lovely and picture-worthy balancier service, the Green Fairy blessed us with her presence, as the louche blossomed within the glass. Posessed with the artistic intent of souls like Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, it was a good night to enjoy life in a bar full of music, people, and ample spirits.


Goody for goodybags and the floral flourish of a Mekong Sour - Photos by Wasabi Prime


Merci to Chantanee and Bar Naga for creating yet another educational and magically delicious evening, as well as the Jeff Busch Band for performing. The ladies of Rouge! were a treat to chat with and watch them perform their spirited magic. Thanks also to Intermezzo Salon for providing little goodie bags to the ladies sitting at the bar, and letting the ladies behind the bar model their dandy styling.

* Post Script: Thanks to Liqurious and FoodieView for posting the absinthe photo on their sites! Cheers to you!

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Friday, September 18, 2009

UnRecipe: Meatless in Seattle

I often wax poetic over the versatility of pork, The Magical Animal, or marvel at The Power of Beef, usually with the haunting voiceover of Matthew McConaughey in my head. But I have several vegetarian friends, and I always feel bad that when "vegetarian options" are made available at gatherings or restaurants, it's often some limp pasta salad or an expressionless pile of steamed vegetables. It's like when Francis "Baby" Houseman gets put in a corner, and while I would never compare myself to the almighty power of The Swazye (peace-out, Patrick!), I felt the need to take those lackluster dishes from the corner and at least attempt a triumphant movie-finale lift. My attempt at an UnRecipe/MacGyver-style cooking vegetarian meal worthy of a Swazye roundhouse kick, consisted of a Roasted Corn Soup, Stuffed Table Squash, and a Caprese-inspired Pesto Portobello Mushroom Cap, with a Mango Sorbet topped with Spiced Pecans and Toasted Coconut.


Nobody puts vegetarians in a corner - Photo by Wasbi Prime


Squash is a nice, no-fuss ingredient to use since it's quite hearty and its structure remains relatively sound for most cooking methods. The little yellow table squash were looking colorful and cute at the market, so I picked up a few of those. They were easily hollowed-out using a mellon baller. Hit with a drizzle of olive oil and some salt/pepper, and away they went into the oven to get a head start on roasting. For the stuffing, I pulled some small carrots and green onions from the garden (so freakin' cool to be able to do that!), chopped up a few cremini mushrooms, a small yellow onion, and sauteed this mix down to reduce the liquid. I mixed a bit of Parmesan cheese into the cooked filling and stuffed the partially roasted squash halves, letting the oven do the rest of the work. The result was a simple, mild-flavored side dish that could be paired with anything or just eaten on its own, and the filling materials could be adjusted in any way, since the squash flavor is so light and ingredient-friendly. It's the perfect neutral party for a MacGyver meal that requires minimal preparation.

The roasted corn soup was more of a rolling experiment. This was how the Swiss-precision, steel trap mostly likely run with rubber bands, known as The Wasabi Brain, went through the food thought process: 1) Flip through the September Martha Stewart Living magazine. 2) Ooh! John Derian's having a dinner party, and he's serving beautiful corn soup! 3) I need to make corn soup. 4) Ignore all recipes and directions, purchasing random ingredients from grocery store. 5) Throw random ingredients together, in a Voltron-like manner, to form-of a pot of corn soup. Ta-daaaah.

In between all that quality thinking, I roasted several cups of corn until they got slightly browned and super-sweet, and added it to a pot that already had some onions, garlic, and a little bit of carrots, sweatin' to the oldies. I added probably a quart's worth of vegetable broth and used the fabulous hand blender to combine everything from rustic chunk to rustic charm. A cup of cream made the whole thing creamy-dreamy and that's what the end-result of the corn soup experiment was. I added the fresh tomato flourish that John Derian had, and that made for an easier photo, since soups always look boring as hell in pictures.

Tomato, tomahto, let's just call it dinner - Photos by Wasabi Prime


Portabello mushrooms are another versatile ingredient to work with. I know it's touted as a meat substitute, and while it's got the moxy to stand up to being grilled, if I get a portabello burger, I'm not having it because I want faux beef, I'm eating it because I dig fungus and I appreciate its own nuanced flavor.

Pesto from Jardin de Wasabi - Photos by Wasabi Prime


Jardin de Wasabi was thankfully able to yield a good amount of basil this season, so with a few snips, the plants were shorn of their precious leaves and a batch of pesto was made, using almonds instead of pine nuts because we're crazy like that. This was the genesis of the Caprese-inspired mushroom caps. I love tomatoes and cheese, but what makes them even more wonderful is when the mozzarella gets gooey and toasted from the oven. The fresh basil wouldn't have stood up to the scorch of the broiler and I really wanted the herb flavor baked into the ingredients, so I put a healthy smear of pesto over each mushroom before they got pre-roasted in the oven. Once cooked down, each cap was piled with thinly sliced tomatoes and a wedge of fresh mozzarella, and under the hot coil they went on the road to Melty Delicious-ville, final destination: My Belly. It was a good trip.

I don't always include desserts in meals, but I had been inspired by blogger Carli, of Velveeta Ain't Food fame, who had a great avocado ice cream recipe. I loved the idea of a creamy recipe that used a unique ingredient combined with savory elements like spiced nuts and sweet roasted coconut as toppers. However, our ice cream machine has a broken paddle, causing a serious harshing of my ice cream mellow, so I couldn't make avocado dessert magic. I still wanted to combine the spiced, savory nuts and sweet coconut with some kind of dessert, so I opted for a store-bought mango sorbet.

Sweet, spicy, salty -- keep dessert interesting! - Photo by Wasabi Prime


The dessert result was still delicious. I think even a vanilla ice cream would have worked fine with the spiced pecans and coconut. While I was roasting the corn for the soup, I double-booked the oven, using a second rack for the cookie sheet with the seasoned pecans and some shredded coconut. I still have a fair bit of leftover coco-pecan-nut sprinklage, so I may get a little pint of creamy vanilla and make my Friday just that much more enjoyable.

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Wednesday, September 16, 2009

UnRecipe: These Tarts are Plum-Tasty, Y'all

Howdy, pard'ners. It's another rootin' tootin' post about delicious grub. This here post is about how plum-tasty Italian plums are when baked in a tart. GAH. I can't write like that beyond two sentences, so that's all I'll make anyone endure in a faux stereotypical cowboy voice. But Italian plums, the smaller, egg-shaped cousins of the more typical round plums one sees in the produce aisles, are a nice seasonal ingredient to take advantage of in the waning months of our fading summer light. I used the wisdom of the Foodie Wizardress of OZ, Donna Hay, to inspire this post about Roasted Plums in a Goat Cheese Tart.

You saucy little tart, you! - Photo by Wasbi Prime

Ms. Hay's recipe featured figs -- something I wholly agree with, but I wanted to take advantage of my new personal produce dealer and fellow blogger, Ms. Picket Fence, who has been so kind to the Wasabi household by sharing fruits of her garden bounty. Sounds naughty, but it's really quite nice of her and Mr. Picket Fence to have given us such delicious treats, some of which that have already been featured in previous posts. This delivery of goodies included a bowlful of Italian plums, freshly picked from their backyard tree. They were a glorious deep reddish purple, almost black, with the dusty pale finish plums get when they ripen. Slicing each one open to reveal a luscious canary-yellow interior, the pits easily popped out (to my relief, as there were quite a few to split!), and the halves were placed on a baking sheet to roast on a high heat until softened. I roasted the figs ahead of time because I knew they would give off a bit of liquid and I didn't want them waterlogging the tart as it baked. It's an extra step, I know, but it's worth it, and it really concentrates the flavor down to a delicious, caramelized intensity.

Fresh Italiano Picket Fence plums and just-baked tart, prior to its om-nommy demise. - Photos by Wasabi Prime

Cheater Confessional: I was keen to have my way with this tart, so I took a shortcut and bought premade pie dough crust. The Horror. I know, I know -- making your own pâte brisée, including leaf lard in the dough, would be the way to go to make the ultimate savory tart. And when I'm not doing this after work during the middle of a busy week, I will at some point attempt a proper lardy-good pie dough crust, as it really is something I've always wanted to try. But during the weekday shuffle, I chose one shortcut to trade out for roasted plum goodness.

Food blogging Hail Marys aside, I took the quickie pie dough and divided the two rounds across the mini tart pans I have. I don't know why I have these bitty tins and not one giant one. I've admitted in old posts that I have a bizarre love for miniature and individual-sized portions. They also cook up faster, which is a bonus. I did a blind bake, docking the bottoms with a fork and letting it partially bake in the the oven while I mixed the custard filling. The recipe doesn't call for this, but I just like doing it because I find it creates a nice moisture barrier and keeps the crust bottom crispy.

I found the inspiration recipe for Donna Hay's fig tart on her website, which I copied below, but you should see her photo, as it's quite lovely and way prettier than mine. Swapping the figs for roasted plums, and using a sprinkle of lemon thyme instead of chives for herbs were the "Un" of this UnRecipe post, otherwise it's almost a real recipe follow. And oh snap, she uses store-bought pie crust too, but it just sounds better when she calls it shortcrust pastry. A good deal nicer-sounding than Krogers Pie Dough, that's for sure.

Once the crusts were partly baked and slightly cooled, I spread the goat cheese in each one and divided the custard between the little regiment of tart tins. The little flattened, roasted plums were arranged on the top, and back into the oven they went. I think this recipe is flexible enough to where you could really add almost anything to it. The plums were nice, as their sweet/sour flavor went well with the creamy goat cheese. I think any roasted stone fruit would go nicely, since they share a similar flavor profile. I think if I did this again with plums, I'll use rosemary or even lavender. The lemon thyme is subtle and was almost lost in the heavier flavors, and strong herbs like rosemary would I think hold up well against the other ingredients. That thought will have to be held for another season, as -- much like the plums -- these summer days are at an end and a new season is about to begin! Happy Fall, y'all!

Fig and Goat's Cheese Tart - Donna Hay Magazine
2 sheets store-bought shortcrust pastry
125g goat's curd* or soft goat's cheese
4 black figs, halved
3 eggs
¾ cup (180ml) single (pouring) cream
1 tablespoon chopped chives
½ cup (20g) finely grated parmesan
sea salt and cracked black pepper


Preheat oven to 180°C (360°F). Cut each pastry sheet into 4 squares. Line 8 x lightly greased 8cm-round, fluted tart tins with pastry. Trim excess pastry and lightly prick bases with a fork. Divide the goat’s curd and fig halves between the cases. Place eggs, cream, chives, parmesan, salt and pepper in a bowl and whisk until well combined. Pour into cases and bake for 25 minutes or until puffed and set. Cool to room temprature and serve. Makes 8. * Goat’s curd is fresh goat’s cheese available from delicatessens.

* Post Script - Delicious thanks to Tastespotting for posting the photo of the Italian plums! Thanks also to Serious Eats' Photograzing for posting pics of the plums and the tart!

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Monday, September 14, 2009

FoodTrek: Wild Ginger with a Hint of Wasabi

In the sage words of 50 Cent: Go shorty, it's your birthday, we gonna party like it's your birthday. Thanks, 50, you maestro of the English lexicon, you. The newly-christened Bellevue Wild Ginger opened its doors for its first night on Saturday at The Bravern, and got to party like it's your birthday to celebrate the birth of a new Eastside dining establishment. Only one word to describe it all: YUM.

Wild Ginger heads East! - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Wild Ginger has been a much-celebrated restaurant in Seattle since 2000, serving deliciously fragrant Thai cuisine and an impressive selection of wines. I'm personally a big fan of owners Rick and Ann Yoder's second creation, The Triple Door, located right next door to the downtown Wild Ginger. It has a gorgeous lounge area and a really impressive music theater where I've seen some outstanding performances. Both Wild Ginger and The Triple Door are full-immersion experiences, where you feel like all your senses are truly involved, and I appreciate their attention to that level of engagement while enjoying a meal. When I heard that there would be a Wild Ginger hopping across the Lake Washington pond to be within the radius of the Happy Hour Martini Mafia, I thought, look out Ginger, here we come. Consider yourself forewarned!

I was excited at the prospect of a new locale with a menu I already enjoy, and very pleasantly surprised to be invited to their opening night soiree. It was a treat to get gussied-up on what's normally a pajama and fuzzy slipper night, so with Mr. Wasabi (aka, Brock) in tow, we set out to dine and mingle with the well-dressed gents and ladies of Bellevue and Seattle. I also had the nervous pleasure of introducing myself to writer Lorna Yee and her husband, who were kind enough to say hello back to my crazy babbling self.

Martini Mafia, target acquired, commence happy hour-ing. - Photo by Wasabi Prime

Wild Ginger's new space is a mix between industrial and earthy materials. It takes up two floors with dining and lounge areas on both levels. Wandering through the space, we discovered a lot of smaller dining nooks with booths and small tables. When the fever of the new opening subsides, this would make for a really pleasant date locale, having all this small party-of-two seating that's secluded and perfect for making googly-eyes at one another. Exposed ceiling structures and iron railings are softened by slabs of teak and bamboo walls. It's a minimal and neutral interior space, making it an aptly zen canvas to showcase the food. One's eye immediately went to the platters carrying colorful and delicious appetizers. Fried little lumpia-like springrolls, sesame-dotted pinwheels of beef, and my favorite for the evening, seared scallops served in a bamboo cup with a little ruffle of lettuce.

View from above and tasty nibbles, up close and personal. - Photos by Wasabi Prime

In the dining area downstairs, they had a table displaying massive bamboo steamer baskets full of shredded duck hugged in fluffy steamed buns, and platters of tender skewers of lamb satay, with a savory rich peanut sauce. There were also small bite-sized crab cakes and vegetables in rice wrappers, devoured too quickly for a photo. Small sweet bites of frosted cakes followed, but once afflicted with om-nomming, it's a critical condition, so just believe me when I say it was all tasty and I'm looking forward to returning and being able to revisit some old favorites on the Eastside Wild Ginger's menu.

We left before we turned into a pumpkin. Hey, it happens. - Photos by Wasabi Prime

I had a glass or two of bubbly, but refrained from partying-down, 50 Cent-style. Taking advantage of the empty floors, we wandered about The Bravern and took a photo of the courtyard space that was set aside for the entrance of the party -- the giant fireplaces scattered throughout all the floors are impressive. And toasty. I hope they have s'mores night at The Bravern. Yeah... probably not. We returned home to our party of one, Indy, who was happy to see us and confirm with much interested sniffing that we indeed had some delicious food, before pouting in her bed that we brought back nary a nibble for her.

A gracious thanks to Wild Ginger and The Bravern for throwing this party, and much Wasabi appreciation for being included in the festivities.

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Sunday, September 13, 2009

MixedPlate: Garden Party of One

The Puget Sound was blessed with a comfortably warm weekend, which only serves to apply pressure for me to get out into the garden and take care of some periodic upkeep. But it didn't preclude me from taking a break and falling into the arms of a lazy Sunday beer, care of the fine folks at New Belgium Brewing of Fort Collins, Colorado.

The only Skinny Dip you won't regret, and one you can enjoy in front of others. - Photo by Wasabi Prime

We're in that in-between phase of gardening, where some things are starting to peter-out, while others are going for their final fall harvest push. Most of the things we planted were spring/summer morsels like spinach, green onions, and a small empire of sugar and snow peas. The greens have started to go to seed or just die back altogether, so I just went ahead and ripped those out now, much to the chagrin of several spiders living amongst the nexus of foliage. They made sure their grievances were heard loud and clear, from the number of red welts on my arms. That's where the beer comes into play. Medicinal purposes only, kids.

Some of the last hurrah of our vegetable garden are carrots and most notably, several yellow table squash plants. I had thought the seeds were too old, so I planted them all, but they all managed to sprout and I did not thin them back. They're overcrowded, so despite the number of plants, I think our harvest will be pitifully small. As of right now, there's just a few of the bulbous, somewhat naughty-shaped squash growing successfully. An inner-monologue with myself brought up that scene from the movie, Forrest Gump, where Tom Hanks' title character hauls in his first catch while attempting his hand at being a shrimp fisherman. Among the garbage and flotsam, he manages to catch maybe four or five little mudbugs. Another fisherman observes, "A couple more and you can have yourself a cocktail." Judging from the bounty of squash we have growing, I think I might be able to make a salad. For two, if we're lucky.

One is the loneliest number that you'll ever eat - Photo by Wasabi Prime

But all is not lost in Le Jardin du Wasabi. Herbs have always been a hearty, successful thing to grow. The rosemary plant we received as an Easter gift is turning into more of a bush, so we've been able to snip sprigs without fear of over-pruning. The strawberry pot that's been the home of a lemon thyme plant and several tufts of chives continues to thrive after several years of rough winters. The flat-leaf parsley has already gone to seed, but I was able to get plenty of fresh sprigs from spring through summer, and it will die back, but not out, so I anticipate a return next season. The Italian basil has already gone the way of pesto, so it's been clipped down, but lives on in a tasty sauce.

LL Cool Sage. Don't call it a comeback! I been here for years! - Photo by Wasabi Prime

We still have a sage plant that's getting its second wind after the summer's heat -- perfect for fall dishes. There's also a mint plant that's always been a strong contender, plus its pernicious cousin, a lemon balm bush that continues its ongoing threat to engulf the house, since I was stupid not to start it in a planter. I'm particularly pulling for a couple of chili pepper plants in the back corner. I've never had great luck with peppers in general, but I thought, maybe if I get something small, it will grow faster and I'll be able to get something out of it before the growing season is done. We'll see how that logic pans out, as the wee bitty peppers on the plants are looking, well... rather wee. So keep an eye out in future posts to see if any of these home-grown ingredients make it to the dinner table.

The edible garden of delights. Photos by Wasabi Prime

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Friday, September 11, 2009

FoodTrek: Edible Tour de Force at the Bravern

The fates shone kindly upon the Prime this week. While donning the fashionable alter-ego of The Jaunty Magpie, an art and style blog I write when I'm not getting splashed with cooking grease or being a cubicle monkey, I was lucky to get a preview tour of The Bravern, a retail/restaurant hive recently opened in the heart of downtown Bellevue. The Magpie part of me was distracted by the pretty shops, but the Wasabi part got all foodie-fangirl when given the opportunity to tour the new restaurants and meet the owners and chefs behind John Howie Steak, Artisanal Brasserie & Winebar/The Artisanal Table Pizzeria Enoteca, and visit the eagerly-anticipated sweet treat, Trophy Cupcakes.

I should preface the post by saying I'm not aiming to be a shill for The Bravern. I've read the editorials, heard the mixed local buzz about a high-end luxury center coming in to the Eastside, and I know there's strong opinions over it. There are pro's and con's to something like this opening during a recession, and I'm sure there's a lot of nervous people involved with banks, anxiously anticipating what all this means when the holiday season hits full swing. That doesn't really concern me in terms of what I write about. I'm a blogger with a day job who likes to cook, takes a few photos, enjoys cocktails with friends, and have been fortunate to meet some really kind people who have been cool enough to talk to someone like me with no official press credentials. And for that, I think it's worth being openly gracious about it, so that's why I make it a point to make mention of people and places, because I know everyone's just trying to get down with their bad selves in a murky economy, and I'm not ashamed of writing about what I like, including the foodie folks in this post.

That being said, I am sorry to report that there was no tasting of the restaurant fare, as they were dilligently prepping their spaces for test dinings and some upcoming pre-events, but Trophy was a dear, and provided the press tour with sweet treats. But let's be good, and have our meal before dessert!


John Howie Steak - GO MEAT! - Photos by Wasabi Prime



We were given a sensory sample of delicious fare that would be offered at John Howie Steak when we walked through their heavy wood double doors. It was almost a cruel thing to let the wafting smells of cooking delights greet us when we walked in -- oh the hunger pangs! But they made up for the stomach-taunting by letting us walk through their beautiful bar and dining area. Rich caramel-colored wood surrounded us as we entered the Eastside's new temple of meat-tropolis. Private wine chests lined the entryway, available for customers to rent and give their precious vino a climate-controlled home away from home. The lounge area was anchored by a striking creamy pink onyx bar, lit from within, casting a soft warm glow. What made the John Howie Steak interiors unique was after leaving the cozy comfort of the bar and walking through an intimate catwalk-like path lined with booths, you suddenly enter a wide, airy dining space with a wall of windows and light (well, it was daytime when we were there). A basket-weave texture of pecan wood sits against one wall and the space is filled with rows of high-backed banquette seating. It's an unusually open and warmly-lit dining area, as most people probably expect to be nestled in dark seating areas, with only dim candlelight to see what you're eating in most traditional steak restaurants.

We were given a tour by restaurant owner and chef, John Howie, a local favorite and longtime veteran of the food service industry, working in restaurants since his early teens. Having moved through the ranks, hopping from locations up and down the Puget Sound, he opened the elegant Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar with locations in both Bellevue and Seattle, and family-friendly SPORT Restaurant & Bar, right by the Space Needle. His previous restaurant successes are a pretty damn good indicator that he deserves the opportunity to reach for the brass ring yet again and envision what a Pacific Northwest steak house should be.

Getting the rare opportunity of a walk-thru tour of the kitchen, Chef Howie described how their cooking method would be unique in its use of both mesquite coal and applewood to enhance the food's flavor. Taking advantage of seasonal seafood, prime steaks and chops, as well as offering the elite Japanese Wagyu beef, the menu would offer quality ingredients to provide diners with a truly special experience. I didn't have a chance to sample this menu's items, but I've visited Seastar enough times to trust that the good chef will do right by this place, and I look forward to returning to John Howie Steak when the meaty protein-machine is fully up and running.


Behold, the power of (Artisanal) cheese - Photos by Wasabi Prime



I have to admit, I got a bit giddy when our group headed towards Artisanal Brasserie & Winebar, located directly across from John Howie Steak. One could theorize that after having one's fill of meat, it would then be time for some cheese -- a worthy combination! Chef Terrance Brennan is a pretty amazing fellow with a commendable love of le fromage. Having worked in kitchens in France and served sous chef duty at the venerable Le Cirque, it's safe to say he knows a bit about French cooking, non? More importantly, I saw him featured on homeskillet Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations, showing off an ooey-gooey cheese tart from Picholine that made me light-headed. When I heard Chef Brennan would be coming to Bellevue and bringing his signature Bar du Fromage with him, I lept for joy and wept for the lactose-intolerant.

Stepping into Artisanal Brasserie, it's like a little corner of Parisian charm. Small black and white tiles cover the floor and a dark wood bar greets guests as they enter. The interior is open and airy, the dining area peppered with white tablecloth-covered tables that overlook the large windows allowing light to pour in. I would opt to stay around the bar, as I think it's a keen thing that its marble surface has a cooling element to keep the cheese at just the right serving temperature. On the way to the kitchen, I snuck a peek at the impressive wheels of cheese that were getting ready to be placed into the glass cabinets -- the selection is going to be c'est magnifique! Along with cheese, charcuterie platters would be offered. We were lucky (and giddy) to have Chef Brennan available to guide us through the restaurant and I asked if any local products like meats from Seattle's Salumi would be resourced. While no promises could be guaranteed, he said he hoped for it, but that other local ingredients would be incorporated where they could, helping to create such offerings like Columbia River sturgeon or the more exotic sauteed skate wing with blood orange grenobloise.

A mini tour of the neighboring Artisanal Table Pizzeria Enoteca revealed that it was the first of its kind among the family of Chef Brennan's restaurants, with Bellevue being the test market for this relaxed style of tapas dining. With an emphasis on simple Italian fare like Neapolitan-style pizzas and antipasti, this dining location off to the side of Artisanal Brasserie would offer itself up as an ideal weekday lunch or happy hour locale, as this smaller eatery is distinguished by no reservations-casual. Their signature dishes offered such indulgent items as a duck pizza with gizzard, confit, foie gras and egg, and a pappardelle featuring a lamb neck bolognese. Yum -- can I just put in an order ahead for both?

We were given a tour of the kitchen, where we were able to see the beating heart of Artisanal, set up in the traditional French style of separate stations, but with modern amenities like air conditioning and a large wall of windows in the prep area. One can never say that Pacific Northwesterners skimp on creature comforts, but Chef Brennan noted that for all those workspace pluses, it only encourages the staff to push harder and ensure they put their best foot forward in making both Artisanal's Brasserie and Table Pizzeria Enoteca a success. Vive la Fromage!


Time for dessert - at Trophy, the sweet tooth always wins! - Photos by Wasabi Prime



After much wandering and tempting food smells, it was a much-appreciated reward to see the chocolate brown-striped awning over the robin's egg blue door of Trophy Cupcakes. Owner Jennifer Shea was there to greet us and she was so good to remember me from the previous Grilling in the City event from weeks before (thanks again!). The interior of the shop looked complete, save for the final touches of adding their sugar-sprinkled goods to the cases and party ephemera and decor to the shelves. She assured us that the menu of flavors that have kept the other Trophy location customers happy would stay consistent with the new Eastside shop. As a gracious gesture of cupcake goodwill, presskit goody bags were given, including a gift card and their signature blueberry pie cupcake. Made with a flaky pie crust bottom and a fresh blueberry center, it was just too pretty to eat... at least right away.

A very grateful thanks goes out to the hard-working teams behind John Howie Steak, Terrance Brennan's Artisanal Brasserie & Winebar and Artisanal Table Pizzeria Enoteca, and Jennifer Shea's Trophy Cupcakes. I look forward to visiting again as just a regular customer, once The Bravern officially opens its doors to the public.

Extra super-duper thanks to John Howie for Tweeting up the Prime and this article, as well as Artisanal Brasserie for putting this article up on their site's press page!

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